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Chinese heritage restaurants hold on to tradition

Old-school family-run eateries share how they stay true to their culinary roots despite a challenging F&B environment

    • Teochew yu sheng drizzled with 98-year-old plum sauce.
    • Jimmy Koh, owner, Cheng Hoo Thian restaurant.
    • A framed copyof Cheng Hoo Thian's original menu from 1930.
    • Cheng Hoo Thian's Teochew oyster omelette.
    • Plum Village restaurant looks the same as it did in the 1980s.
    • Plum Village's Hakka dishes for CNY.
    • Plum Village's father and son duo:  (L-R) Lai Fak Nian and Jimmy Lai
    • Lai Wah restaurant is one of the oldest Cantonese restaurants in Singapore.
    • Lai Wah first served the original yu sheng in 1964.
    •  Lai Wah restaurant's Dr Wong Choo Wai  and his father Wong Kah Onn.
    • Spring Court Restaurant
    • Spring Court's bestselling pen cai.
    • Spring Court's Soon Puay Keow and her son Mike Ho.
    • Teochew yu sheng drizzled with 98-year-old plum sauce. PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN
    • Jimmy Koh, owner, Cheng Hoo Thian restaurant. PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN
    • A framed copyof Cheng Hoo Thian's original menu from 1930. PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN
    • Cheng Hoo Thian's Teochew oyster omelette. PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN.
    • Plum Village restaurant looks the same as it did in the 1980s. PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN
    • Plum Village's Hakka dishes for CNY. PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN
    • Plum Village's father and son duo: (L-R) Lai Fak Nian and Jimmy Lai PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN
    • Lai Wah restaurant is one of the oldest Cantonese restaurants in Singapore. PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN
    • Lai Wah first served the original yu sheng in 1964. PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN
    • Lai Wah restaurant's Dr Wong Choo Wai and his father Wong Kah Onn. PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN
    • Spring Court Restaurant PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN
    • Spring Court's bestselling pen cai. PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN
    • Spring Court's Soon Puay Keow and her son Mike Ho. PHOTO: YEN MENG JIIN

    DeeperDive is a beta AI feature. Refer to full articles for the facts.

    Published Thu, Jan 19, 2023 · 06:00 PM

    CHINESE New Year invariably brings up thoughts of tradition and a sense of nostalgia for the family reunion dinners of the past. But today’s Chinese restaurants seem more focused, for example, on serving up modernised yu sheng fit for Instagram pictures than on upholding heritage.

    However, a handful of old-school eateries are still presenting their dishes in ways that haven’t changed for decades; these are the places offering Teochew, Hakka and Cantonese dishes that have stood the test of time.

    That their businesses have not folded during the Covid-19 lockdown and the travails of the F&B industry attests to the owners’ tenacity to keep going despite the challenges. Supporting them are their regular diners, as well as a growing number of the younger set who are curious about the restaurants’ heritage and are keen to try out restaurants frequented by their parents and grandparents.

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