Disappointing bottles that raise provenance concerns

GEVREY-Chambertin is the largest of Burgundy's wine villages. Situated at the northern end of the Côtes de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin wines are darker in colour, firmer in body and more tannic in structure than the wines of the Communes south of it.

In the past, there have been many underachievers here, but now the general quality is higher than ever and the best can develop into the most complete and long-lived Burgundies.

Gevrey-Chambertin wines are to Burgundy what Pauillac is to Bordeaux, both similarly at the northern-most end of their respective regions; both similarly full-bodied, firm, dense wines tending to be tannic.

In their youth, they are typically bright and dark ruby-red, slowly browning to a dark mahogany-red with age. Their bouquet typica…