FOOD & DRINK

Japanese star Takuya Kimura learnt to cook from this top chef for his hit TV show

Paris-based Kei Kobayashi talks about his journey to three Michelin stars in France, and being a chef consultant for the sequel to La Grande Maison Tokyo

    • Chef Kei Kobayashi.
    • The Michelin Guide says Kobayashi's cuisine "verges on perfection".
    • Chef Kei Kobayashi. PHOTO: RITZ-CARLTON TOKYO
    • The Michelin Guide says Kobayashi's cuisine "verges on perfection". PHOTO: RESTAURANT KEI
    Published Thu, Feb 20, 2025 · 12:00 PM

    WHEN La Grande Maison Tokyo first aired on Netflix, the television series captured the imagination of food lovers and Japan aficionados alike, with its engaging plot lines and veteran entertainer Takuya Kimura in the lead role. The sequel, La Grande Maison Paris, was released late last year – but with no word on whether the movie will ever be screened or streamed in Singapore. 

    Even so, the film shone the spotlight on chef Kei Kobayashi, whose Paris-based Restaurant Kei has maintained its three-Michelin-star status since 2020. Kobayashi opened the fine-dining establishment in 2011 and made headlines when he became the first Asian to earn the highest cooking accolade in France, undoubtedly the home of French cuisine.

    It was no surprise that he was tapped to lend his culinary expertise to the highly anticipated La Grande Maison Paris, which follows La Grande Maison Tokyo Special (also released in end-December 2024). Both continue the hit TV series that first aired in 2019. 

    La Grande Maison Paris, which revolves around a group of Japanese chefs pursuing the coveted three Michelin stars in the French capital, unites the original cast including Kimura, who reportedly dyed his hair platinum blonde for his role as a tribute to Kobayashi’s signature look.

    “I became involved in the movie after being introduced to the producer by Kyoka Suzuki (the show’s main actress),” says Kobayashi in an exclusive interview.

    “After multiple discussions with the producer, director and screenwriters, I decided to take on this project because I wanted to energise the restaurant industry, which had struggled during the Covid-19 pandemic. I also wanted to help more people understand the appeal of the culinary world and spark their interest.” 

    I had many conversations with Takuya Kimura, and his relentless pursuit of excellence deeply resonated with me. I felt a strong connection between the worlds of cooking and acting, even though they are entirely different fields.

    Kei Kobayashi

    The film is close to his heart as it addresses the aftermath of the pandemic and its devastating impact on the global restaurant industry.

    On set, the 47-year-old chef provided technical guidance to the cast, overseeing the cooking scenes and collaborating closely with the production team to create an authentic fine-dining world woven with intricate details.

    “I witnessed the true passion and professionalism of the team, which was incredibly inspiring,” he says.

    The valuable experience was a two-way street. “During the filming, I had opportunities to teach the actors how to cook. At the same time, I learnt a lot from them about the mindset and professionalism of being an actor.

    “In particular, I had many conversations with Takuya Kimura, and his relentless pursuit of excellence deeply resonated with me,” he adds. “I felt a strong connection between the worlds of cooking and acting, even though they are entirely different fields.”

    The film crew and Kobayashi worked to create a genuine portrayal of the demanding restaurant business. “It’s challenging to capture every aspect of the dining world in a film, but I felt that it successfully conveyed its essence and core within the limited time and story,” says the chef.

    “I hope it provides a glimpse into the realities of the dining industry.”

    Overcoming real-life obstacles

    In a way, the struggles of the chefs in the movie reflect Kobayashi’s own challenges on his way to the top of the French cooking chain. 

    Born in Suwa in Nagano prefecture, he recalls being a competitive child. His father was a chef in a kaiseki restaurant and his mother a Western cook, but Kobayashi didn’t plan to follow in their footsteps at first. 

    It wasn’t until he watched a documentary about chef Alain Chapel of three-Michelin-star fame that he discovered his calling, at age 15. 

    As a Japanese person diving into the heart of French cuisine, I had to work harder than anyone else to prove myself and deliver results. However, I’m grateful for the tough environment because it taught me so much and shaped who I am today.

    Kei Kobayashi

    He initially trained in French cuisine in Nagano before heading to Tokyo. In 1998, he travelled to France, where he jumped through hoops to enter the kitchens of renowned French chefs, including Gilles Goujon (L’Auberge du Vieux Puits in the south of France) and Alain Ducasse (Hotel Plaza Athenee in Paris). He eventually launched Restaurant Kei, which earned its first Michelin star in 2012. 

    “It was like a battlefield,” says Kobayashi of his early days working and competing with French chefs in Paris. “As a Japanese person diving into the heart of French cuisine, I had to work harder than anyone else to prove myself and deliver results. However, I’m grateful for the tough environment because it taught me so much and shaped who I am today.”

    And yes, he did feel the discrimination as a Japanese person cooking French cuisine. “I simply had to work harder, cook faster and be much more precise than the others,” he says.

    This makes his restaurant earning three Michelin stars in France that much more of an accomplishment. “It is a great honour to co-exist with and be recognised alongside the chefs I have always admired in this land.”  

    Tokyo vs Paris

    Unlike the fictional chefs in the movie who made it big in Tokyo before setting their sights on Paris, Kobayashi did it in reverse. He set up Heritage by Kei Kobayashi at The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo in January 2024, which went on to earn one star in October, in the Michelin Guide Tokyo 2025 edition.

    “The concept behind Heritage is to elevate ‘gastronomic French cuisine’ by blending the beauty and sensibilities of Japan,” says Kobayashi, who returns to Tokyo three times a year. He works closely with chef de cuisine Teruki Murashima, who trained with him in Paris for three months.

    Still, the star chef has no plans to return to Japan for good, even though he believes it is a safe and easy place to live, compared to France. “The dining scene (there) has a unique charm that other cities do not have,” he says.

    “I want to build my brand from my base in Paris and reach out to the world from here. The restaurants in Tokyo play an important role in that effort.”

    He also opened two other restaurants in Tokyo last year – Esprit C Kei Ginza (billed as a gastronomic laboratory) and Kei Collection Paris (a fine-dining grill at Toranomon Hills Station Tower). 

    “I enjoy life in Paris, even though there are challenges to living abroad as a Japanese person,” he adds. According to Japanese media reports, in September 2024, three men robbed his home in Paris and injured his wife. He was abroad at that time. 

    Despite that, the couple has chosen Paris as their permanent residence. “This city offers great food, history and art – providing great stimulation to my life,” says Kobayashi. 

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