Korean barbecue goes big at DRIM Gold

NEW RESTAURANT

DRIM Gold Korean Steak House B1-204 Resorts World Sentosa 8 Sentosa Gateway Singapore 098269 Tel:  8806-0505 Open daily: 11 am to 10 pm

THEY call it a cave. We can’t stop thinking, “that’s a lot of papier-mache”. White, craggy lumps proliferating across the walls of an otherwise stunning Korean hanok – not so much plastered, but almost breeding. Is it a design statement, or cautionary tale of mildew left unchecked for generations?

But you have to give it to DRIM. Its newest – and biggest – opening at Resorts World Sentosa is made for impact, competing with the likes of Harry Potter and a United Nations of theme park-worthy food concepts. Having exhausted the “mid-Joseon emperor’s backyard” aesthetic at its debut space in Mandarin Gallery, it’s moved into “go big or go home” territory.

Wonky cave metaphor aside, DRIM Gold spares no expense in turning Korean barbecue into performance art. It’s high-stakes hospitality the moment you step in – the reception coolly sorts out your reservation mix-up (we booked Mandarin Gallery by mistake) while hostess Ashley swiftly walks you through the menu and table set-up. 

Meanwhile, a drill sergeant dressed in civilian clothing paces up and down with an eagle eye and a walkie-talkie, keeping everyone on their toes.

There’s a lot to take in once you’re seated, thanks to its sheer size. Beyond the amorphous columns of faux limestone are barbecue stations in every configuration – from solo diners to rowdy K-drama club gatherings.

Thick timber pillars and rafters give it that old-world feel, but the vibe is more efficient banquet dining than endearing “annyeong” folksiness. 

Think of DRIM Gold as its Orchard Road sibling in overdrive – with an expanded menu that includes the newly-trending Korean beef (hanwoo) and pork, at prices inspired by the precious metal. 

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Hanwoo short rib is tagged at S$102 for 100 g, for a minimum order of 200 g. The cut of the day, striploin, costs slightly more, at S$110 per 100 g. Feeling sadistic? Multiply that into kilogram pricing and marvel at the mark-up. If you buy the equivalent at retail price, it’s in the region of S$300 to S$350.

There are “budget” alternatives – USDA prime short rib at S$58 per 100 g, or wagyu oyster blade at S$68.

Pork is a bargain in comparison, with Jeju black pork averaging S$38 per 100 g.

There are hanwoo set menus at S$248 a head (for a minimum of two diners), but you lose out on variety. It’s best to pay for only what you want.

That includes a crunchy water parsley pancake (S$34) – pretend you’re fulfilling your daily veggie quota even if it’s covered in a blanket of chewy-crisp fried batter. Dried shrimp takes this guilty pleasure up a notch.

Butter-grilled Jeju abalone (S$88) yields plump butter-grilled morsels with little tooth resistance, but not much character. The grated cheese on top is a pesky distraction. 

The cold noodles (S$33) go down well – slippery, chewy, slicked with the vegetal perfume of perilla oil and tossed in a parade of condiments.

Service here is virtually gold standard. Every table has an assigned grill expert, and ours is Darren, tasked to cook, entertain and take care of us. 

In between carefully draping slices of marinated hanwoo short rib and striploin over controlled flames, he narrates the matching benefits of Maldon salt, wasabi, spicy fish roe, pickled garlic leaves and other assorted banchan.

Salt is the most neutral, but feel free to wrap, dip and munch in any way you like. Raw garlic slightly charred on the grill is a must, even if you don’t plan to meet any vampires later.

The marinated short rib is mildly sweet and not cloying, so you still taste the fine texture of the meat. The striploin is a better cut – with a cleaner beefiness and steak-like texture. 

Quality-wise, hanwoo isn’t as fatty as Japanese wagyu and more tender than Australian wagyu. But the variety available in Singapore tastes entry-level, compared to what you can get in Seoul.

Still, if you can stomach the price, it’s a good fallback between trips. Jeju pork, in contrast, is better value. It’s superior to local pork and fresher than iberico, if still better at source.

DRIM is only as good as its ingredients are. Add accessibility and good service, and you get an all-round, fuss-free – if slightly over-the-top – experience.

It aims for gold, but it’s not quite there yet.

Rating: 6.5