Light up the table with festive wines

IT'S a week before Christmas, so the question is: What do we drink at Christmas dinner? Depends to some extent on what the menu is - or one could take the line that the menu is incidental, we just drink what we want to drink - what we have been hoarding!

The rather sober economic outlook may cast a sobering shadow over any celebratory attempt but it is precisely that pall of gloom which we should aim to chase away by celebrating with family and friends, renewing family and friendship bonds. And go for broke.

Champagne first, of course. The choice is simple. Drink the champagne you have been saving up for just such an occasion. Dom Perignon comes to mind as it is perhaps the best known of the top Champagne cuvees. Vintage? Not especially critical though…