A taste of Hong Kong 

THE LIFTING OF HONG KONG’S mask mandate was also an invitation for food lovers both local and international to dine out in the city again. There are plenty of established names and new concepts to look out for, with several restaurants set to open over the next few months. Celebrity chef Alvin Leung, for one, recently opened Cafe Bau, a farm-to-table eatery in Wan Chai. Meanwhile, a multi-concept dining destination – Forty-Five – opens on the titular floor of Gloucester Tower at The Landmark in Central with Shanghainese restaurant, The Merchants.

Forty-Five is also home to high-profile restaurants opening in stages, including The Cristal Room by Anne-Sophie Pic. Soon to open at Wellington Street in Central is Feuille by Parisian chef David Toutain – his first outside France.

But die-hard diners still have plenty of choice for their next trip to Hong Kong. From modern French to new Latin American and elevated Cantonese, restaurants which opened during the pandemic are welcoming guests to experience their unique menus.

Mora

In the character-rich and somewhat gritty Sheung Wan neighbourhood, you will find hip bars and trendy restaurants juxtaposed with dried seafood stalls and laundromats.

Right in the heart of this busy stretch is Mora – a modern French Chinese restaurant by chef-proprietor Vicky Lau. Only a three-minute walk from Lau’s two-Michelin-starred Tate Dining Room, this intimate restaurant was launched in early 2022. 

Lau’s aim is to push the boundaries of her soy-driven menu. The soy theme is elegantly woven throughout the restaurant. All the furnishings are custom-made – from the tofu skin-inspired 3D-printed pendant lamps, to the beautiful ancient Chinese panels that depict tofu-making processes of yore.

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While Lau oversees the menus which explore the joy of soy – think tofu, soy milk, and tofu skin – the kitchen of the 28-seater is headed by Chef Percy Ho.

This isn’t a vegetarian or plant-based restaurant though. Various fresh ingredients are cleverly fused with soy products, most of which are made in Mora’s own factory. The factory utilises a new technology of extracting soy milk to form thicker texture and more intense flavours. 

Start off with snacks of tofu croquette, and ratatouille with soy ricotta stuffed in tofu pockets, before warming your belly with traditional savoury soy milk uplifted with shrimp head essence. The milk is poured over a cup of rose vinegar and soy sauce, and served with condiments like sakura ebi.

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Courses include perfectly seared Hokkaido scallops resting on fermented tofu sauce that’s balanced and not overpowering, and the signature cold udon noodles in soy milk lobster bouillon with succulent lobster and deep-fried white bait fish. A light dessert of soy ice cream with lemon jelly and sweet corn is paired with shots of soy milk, hazelnut and black sesame drinks. When your soy feast is over, you’re guaranteed to leave Mora feeling nourished and satiated. 

Rosita

This restaurant in buzzing Wan Chai is tucked away on Ship Street – just off the main thoroughfare of Hennessy Road where trams trundle past every few minutes. Opened in December 2022, this small space is warm and welcoming, reminiscent of a cosy home. 

The first concept of its kind in Hong Kong, Rosita brings a fresh take on “new” Latin American cuisine with a sprinkling of influences from Japan and France. This is a joint venture between chef friends, Argentinian Chef Agustin Ferrando Balbi who runs the one Michelin starred Andō (by JIA Group) and Venezuelan Ricardo Chaneton, chef-owner of Mono (he was former executive chef of Petrus at Island Shangri-La Hong Kong). Rosita’s kitchen is led by Argentinian head chef Marco A. Livoti.  

To kick off, instead of the usual bread course, guests are offered arepas, a South American staple made from corn flour and water. This version is based on a traditional recipe from Venezuela and paired with dips such as chicken liver mousse and aji amarillo butter.

Besides South American guiso – a homestyle stew of meat and pasta that is luxed up here with succulent Maine lobster and gnocchetti sardi (small ridged-shape pasta) in a bold lobster bisque – the highlight here is the robust arroz con pollo – there’s local Ping Yuen chicken that’s been brined, steamed and barbecued. Stuffed under the chicken skin is a blend of chicken mousse, pepper, olives and capers. The succulent and lightly smoked meat is served on subtly sweet top-quality Yumegokochi rice from Yamagata, Japan.

Finally, don’t leave Rosita without indulging in crisp churros dusted with cinnamon sugar and married with luscious dulce de leche. 

Clarence

Walk up the uneven steps (or down if you don’t want your knees to suffer) of Pottinger Street in Central, and turn into the H Code building. Here, take a lift to the 25th floor which opens up to Clarence, a modern restaurant owned by French chef Olivier Elzer.

The well-known chef who hails from Alsace is also in charge of two-Michelin-starred L’Envol at the St Regis Hong Kong. He wanted to create something different for diners as he felt that Hong Kong’s scene is already saturated with French fine dining and brasserie fare. Clarence’s menu presents lighter French classics – prepared using Asian cooking methods such as steaming, teppan or robata. 

You can of course savour gleaming caviar and creamy Hokkaido uni for starters. But what stands out are the different fish and meats cooked on the bone. Highly recommended is the massive skate wing fired up on the teppanyaki grill and served with brown butter and warm spices on the side. 

Clarence’s desserts are particularly stunning. Strawberry cream and homemade Normandy milk ice cream are offset with raspberry sorbet, rose water jelly, fresh lychees, and festooned with fragrant rose petals. Warm golden croffles come with it for the ideal touch. 

The service here is top notch as Elzer’s affable and gracious sister runs the floor. Alternatively, check out the raw fish and wine bar or Sommelier Room ideal for dedicated pairings. 

Man Wah and The Aubrey 

If you have to choose just one upscale Cantonese restaurant with sweeping views of Victoria Harbour  –  this is it. Man Wah is an iconic spot on the 25th floor of Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, which is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year. 

The one-Michelin-starred restaurant went through a major revamp during the pandemic. Now the plush interiors feature walls decked with striking blue lacquered panels inlaid with gilded brass trim, Chinese embroidered panelled artworks, and contemporary furnishings. 

Executive Chef Wong Wing Keung expertly updates Cantonese classics with creative presentation. Tuck into refined specialities such as delicate steamed egg crowned with lobster meat, morel mushrooms, sea urchin and hand-crafted mini goldfish dumplings. Recommended too is the pan-fried fillet of grouper livened up with shrimp paste and sweet chilli sauce. The chef’s rendition of barbecued Iberian pork loin with longan honey is perfectly glazed, caramelised and succulent.

You may choose to linger over calming Chinese tea or cold brew green tea while soaking in unbroken views of the city. Or head over next door to The Aubrey for a nightcap – topped with more views of the soaring skyscrapers and harbour. 

This elevated Japanese izakaya recently ranked 38 on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2022 list. The venue boasts three distinctive bars: a Champagne Sake Bar offering oysters, champagne and sparkling sakes, and a smaller omakase cocktail bar. There’s also the main bar area where you can mingle with business executives who come here to unwind over post-work drinks. Tip: score a table next to the window for the best vista of Hong Kong’s glittering skyline.