The culture is changing, with feminist cheese

LAST year, Erin Bligh, the proprietor of Dancing Goats Dairy in Newbury, Massachusetts, planned to introduce a new cheese - hard, with spicy peppers - called Madam President, in what she assumed would be a fromage homage to a historic election.

Then came the unexpected result: hard cheese indeed, in the Evelyn Waugh sense of the phrase.

"I'm like, 'Oh …