The other super-Tuscan

THE summer heat in Italy this year is excruciating, but the discomfort was compensated to some extent by the wondrous vistas of the rolling hills of Tuscany - the glorious landscape of forested hills and vineyard-covered hillsides.

Tenuta dell Ornellaia is a regular pit-stop for me whenever I am in Bolgheri. My first visit to Ornellaia was in 1985, soon after it had been started (in 1982) by Ludovico Antinori, brother of Marchese Piero Antinori of the great wine producer Marchese Antinori. Since then, Ornellaia has been one of my favourite pit-stops every time. And it has been fascinating watching the growth and development of the winery after it changed hands. Because, sadly, starting in 2000 a small share of Ornellaia was sold to Mondavi. By 2002, Mondavi - together with the Frescobaldi family - had acquired a controlling interest with the inevitable result, taking place in 2004, that the Frescobaldi family became sole proprietors when Mondavi was bought by Constellation.

Notwithstanding the extensive extension of the vineyards and the production, wine director Axel Heinz has successfully maintained Ornellaia consistently in the character and quality as it always has been. A blend of 60 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 per cent Merlot, 12 per cent Cabernet Franc and 3 per cent Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in barriques, Ornellaia is in character slightly softer and fuller-bodied than its neighbour Sassicaia.