Yakiniku that makes the cut at Ushiyama
The Holland Village eatery serves up premium wagyu in a cosy neighbourhood setting
NEW RESTAURANT
Ushiyama Yakiniku 251 Holland Avenue Singapore 278981 Tel: 9232 3838 Open for dinner only Mon to Fri: 5:30 pm to 10:30 pm. Lunch and dinner on Sat & Sun: 11:30 am to 3 pm.
AMONG cuisine types, yakiniku must be one of the most limiting. There are fewer ways to slice a cow than to skin a cat – thick, thin, maybe some diamond-shaped slashes if you’re feeling fancy. Other than that, there’s just beef, and fire to play with.
Yet, yakiniku joints proliferate, and how you tell one from the other boils down to the actual cow they use, and how much free kimchi they want to give you. And of course, the price.
At face value, Ushiyama looks and feels like your garden-variety yakiniku. It’s in Holland Village, which qualifies as a neighbourhood eatery only if you’re in the top 2 per cent demographic. The rest of us can take a very convenient MRT ride there because the station exit is just outside the restaurant.
It looks fancy in a budget way, if you know what we mean. There are faux stone walls, lots of wood, mood lighting and best of all – roomy tables with built-in gas grills that give you enough personal space away from other diners. If you can, try to snare one of the private rooms upstairs, which they’ll let you have for no minimum spend if they haven’t been pre-booked. You get your own little cooking cocoon and a convenient call button for when you want attention or more pickles. Don’t worry about cooking smells. The made-in-Japan grills suck up the nasties and leave your clothes untainted.
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Ushiyama also boasts some pedigree. Its chef-owner Masaya Suzuki is ex-Waku Ghin, and he brings not only his resume to this new venture, but also the same wagyu used by the Michelin-starred eatery. The beef is Ohmi – one of the top three wagyu next to Kobe and Matsusaka – and sourced from a particular farm in Shiga prefecture. This is important because it means the quality is consistent, and the price, stable.
It’s not cheap, but since when was wagyu ever a bargain, especially if it’s from Japan and not Australia? Prices range from S$38 for 90 g of kata rosu to S$168 for 100 g of chateaubriand. Apparently, the restaurant is negotiating to lower the prices, but even then, the current pricing isn’t a dealbreaker because a little meat goes a long way.
With its rich, yet not cloying, marbling, you don’t need a lot to enjoy the supple, mild sweetness that leaves a satisfying film on your lips. Order judiciously, and pile on the side dishes, which are the real stars of the show. Your wallet will bleed slightly, but you’ll still enjoy it.
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Among the cuts, spring for zabuton or prized chuck flap (S$68 for 90 g) for the best texture and bite. Choose from simple salt or house marinade; salt is best if you want unadulterated flavour, but the not-too-sweet sauce is a nice change too.
Jo karubi (S$48) or boneless short rib, gives your teeth something to do, and has a stronger beefiness. Another favourite is ichibo (S$58) or top sirloin cap, which has been wet-aged for three months and is almost melt-in-the-mouth. Kuri (S$48) or chuck eye, has a faint “powdery” texture, which is easily remedied with an extra bite of very good homemade kimchi. Still, not our favourite cut.
The napa cabbage kimchi, the lightly pickled, slippery-crisp nagaimo or yam, and marinated cucumbers (S$16 for three) are no mere bit players. They’re good enough to hold their own, along with marinated mushrooms, zucchini and bean sprouts (S$16).
For those who appreciate off-cuts, Australian wagyu jo tan (S$38) or tongue is a must-have. Tender-crisp without any gaminess, they can be grilled and wrapped over chopped leeks (S$4) for extra kick. Hokkaido pork collar (S$24) is not to be sniffed at, with well-marbled, juicy meat.
Save money and fill up on the addictive spicy beef soup (S$18), coloured a devilish red and brimming with beef trimmings, leeks and mushrooms.
There’s also garlic fried rice ($16) – intensely garlicky, wok-fried Japanese rice without a trace of egg, but just as rich. Add wagyu bits for an extra S$10. But carb heaven lies in the wagyu curry rice (S$28), where sinewy chunks trimmed from slabs of Ohmi are simmered into submission in a thick gravy spiked with garam masala for a stronger Indian accent. Homemade pickles made of finely sliced lotus root, daikon and eggplant are a far cry from the ghastly red condiments of the commercial versions.
End the meal with the creamy Okinawa black sugar gelato (S$12), and skip the icy pineapple-passion fruit sorbet (S$10). Pricey for a scoop of ice cream, but then you’re not in the MRT station anymore.
Still, the service is warm, and the servers good-natured, which emboldens you to make yourself at home here. Ushiyama is no budget canteen, but visions of curry rice, pickles and zabuton are likely to draw us back to this neighbourhood soon.
Rating: 7
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