In greater wonderment due to great whites

IN the past two weeks, I have had more whites than reds in the past six months - a most refreshing experience that included a Grand Cru Chablis, a Montrachet, a Corton Charlemagne and wonder of wonders, an Haut Brion Blanc!

Chablis Valmur Grand Cru 2009, Domaine Jean-Paul Droin

Very pale yellow with a lovely light lemony fragrance, almost perfume-like in its fineness. With the very first sip, you know it's a big wine, with great concentration of citrusy fruit and minerality. A very fresh taste, very rich with fruit. Attractive to drink now in what I would call "childhood", and deserves to be aged a minimum of 10 years, preferably more. This Domaine has a well-deserved reputation, the current generation being the 14th! True Chablis family, thus steeped in its tradition and folk-lore. Valmur has the reputation of being perhaps the weightiest of the Grands Crus. Weight and power, and always very rich in extract. A little less elegance than Les Clos and Blanchots, my two favourite Chablis Grands Crus. We should really see more of these Chablis; they are such a change from the usual Pulignys and Meursaults. This wine, for instance, was served with thinly sliced Australian abalone and what a magical combination, the minerally Chablis cleaning the palate after the smoky, slightly earthy taste of the abalone.