His customer always comes first

CHEF Yamada Chikara may have built his career working in European restaurants for eight years, and even spent two working with Ferran Adria of Spain's El Bulli, but he still believes in one of the most conventional rules in running a restaurant - the customer always comes first.

Speaking through a Japanese translator, the personable 44-year-old chef earnestly emphasises how important his customer's opinion is to him. So much so that he is always willing to change his food just to suit them.

"Some people expect molecular food from me, some want more traditional Cha-Kaiseki, so I have to discuss it with them. I will change the entire menu depending on what my customer wants," says Chef Yamada, who runs a small cha-kaiseki (tea ceremony inspired) restaurant in Tokyo named after himself.