In pursuit of under S$100 Japanese dining

NEW RESTAURANTS

Yamato Japanese Restaurant #01-17, 1 Goldhill Plaza Singapore 308899 Tel: 6250 1321 Open for lunch and dinner Tues to Sun: 11.30am to 2pm; 5.30pm to 9.30pm. Closed on Mon.

Hanare by Takayama

#03-07 Takashimaya Shopping Centre, Ngee Ann City Singapore 238872 Tel: 8298 9369 Open daily: 12pm to 10pm

Yamato

Just as there are factions in society who do not believe in Santa Claus, there are those who believe there is no such thing as a S$100 omakase. Certainly not in a Japanese chef-run restaurant, unless his name is Teppei - that Japanese-by-nature but Ah-Beng-towkay-by-nurture chef who pioneered the S$88 omakase. And built a business empire on the basic tenet of psychology that says - in the face of quantity, people will modify their definition of quality.

Still, even Teppei has breached the S$100 barrier (although there's still a S$50 lunch), while his compatriots compete to see who can push the price pain threshold - remember a time when the S$350 lunch at Sushi Kou was considered outrageous? - beyond most pay scales.

It used to be that we could apply a price-quality ratio at such prices, but it's getting harder these days given the generic quality you find across the board.

So, if you're looking to explore the other end of the spectrum, set aside your Edomae-honed prejudices and explore the neighbourhood ambience of Yamato. Goldhill Plaza isn't exactly the suburbs, but the vibe here is low-key. It doesn't scream "omotenashi at a premium price", more like "get Japanese food here" with its nondescript decor created by one who might have learned how to design a restaurant on YouTube.

Our interest in Yamato actually stems from its tenuous link to Goto - and our fond memories of the long defunct restaurant at Ann Siang Road run by former Japanese embassy chef Hisao Goto and his wife. Goto himself is neither in Singapore nor cooking at Yamato but from what we gather, he is now a business partner of sorts. And helming the kitchen here is a Goto alumnus - Ryo Endo - who worked there for a while before it closed for good around 2015. Endo himself returned to Japan to work at various restaurants and is now back to represent his old boss.

Omakase here starts at S$68, although it goes up to as much as S$198 because of the two wagyu courses it throws in. There's also an a la carte menu for good measure. If you want to stick to a S$100 omakase budget and keep your expectations in check, the S$98 set isn't half bad at all - simple but fresh, prepared with good intentions and friendly if not slick service. It's priced well enough that you could easily become a regular here, and spend as little or as much as you want without being judged.

You know that Endo has some pride when you sample his appetiser trio - a disc of ankimo, chrysanthemum jelly refreshingly matched with ikura, and sliced cold roast beef that is fresh enough to not have absorbed any fridginess.

If you upgrade to the S$138 set, you get an extra appetiser of yuba, dashi jelly, uni and ikura - a little rough around the edges but good enough.

The price difference between sets comes from the value of the ingredients, so the S$98 set gets you a mixed sashimi plate of chutoro, hirame and seared sawara, while the next-level set gets you additional amberjack. That's followed by either grilled fish (dry) or tempura (better), with the latter even including a satisfying crisp and melting-soft battered shirako in the S$138 set.

A miso hotpot of pork belly (S$98 set) or A4 wagyu (S$138 set) is packed with vegetables in an earthy broth - so pick according to your meat preference, although the beef is better. Sushi - decent fish quality but mediocre rice and technique - replaces the conventional rice dish and finally, a scoop of matcha ice cream to finish. Incidentally, if you're missing Bangkok, one of the servers is Thai, with the delicate mannerisms and lilting accent that makes you imagine for one second that you're in a Japanese restaurant in Thonglor.

Back to reality - at this price point, we have no complaints. And if you compare like for like, Yamato has the edge over its competitors. There are no surprises, and it doesn't claim to be anything it's not. And that in itself is worth the price you pay.

Hanare by Takayama

Close your eyes and think of Hanare by Takayama's kamameshi as an under S$100 mini omakase - you get a cold starter, followed by sashimi, a grilled dish, chawanmushi and a generous rice dish of snow crab, unagi or abalone as your only choice in the meal.

Ok, we lie. Open your eyes and you have a glorified bento set in front of you. However, you might have reason to delude yourself since the real Takayama is Taro Takayama, who runs his very credible - if under-appreciated - namesake restaurant at OUE Downtown Gallery.

As fans, we can think of many ways in which Takayama could have put his name to a budget-friendly version of his omakase dinners - but kamameshi isn't one of them. Claypot rice by any other name, kamameshi works best in the middle of winter in Gunma prefecture, sitting in a traditional restaurant that's been serving rice cooked in iron pots for centuries.

But not in the shopping mall in Ngee Ann City, sitting in faux chic surroundings where wood veneer tries to emulate the real thing, and air-conditioning is a poor substitute for snow. The only commonality between kamameshi in Gunma and kamameshi in Orchard Road is that it was boring there and it's boring here.

It's also accentuated by the fact that we were there when kamameshi was the only thing on the menu (it has since added more items). And from the apologetic shrug from the servers in response to an incredulous "isn't there anything else to eat?", we weren't alone in our sentiments.

So, with an entire menu filled with the grand total of one dish split into 5 options: seasonal crab (S$68), abalone (S$72), salmon (S$48), unagi (S$52), wagyu (S$48), the verdict shall be equally short.

Blah. Ho-hum. Some sashimi. Bad cold vinegared fried chicken. Miso cod. Rice. Some stuff on top. It tastes the way you read it in the menu. Under S$100? Yes. But we'd rather spend more to get variety somewhere else.

Rating: Yamato: 6.5; Hanare by Takayama: 5.5

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

10: The ultimate dining experience 9-9.5: Sublime 8-8.5: Excellent 7-7.5: Good to very good 6-6.5: Promising 5-5.5: Average

Our review policy: The Business Times pays for all meals at restaurants reviewed on this page. Unless specified, the writer does not accept hosted meals prior to the review's publication.