Inspired by Japan: Grand Seiko and Ressence’s new watches

Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko has introduced two new additions to its Heritage Collection: the SBGX359 and SBGX361. The softly textured Snowflake dial is instantly recognisable, as is its Skyflake counterpart with its cooler, bluish hue.

Both models now come in a 33-mm case, signalling a welcome return to classic proportions. This also opens the door to a broader audience whose wrists are too small for the traditional 37-mm or 40-mm cases.

The inspiration, as always with Grand Seiko, is rooted in nature. The dials draw from the snow-clad slopes of Japan’s Hotaka mountain range, as seen from the Shinshu Watch Studio where these pieces are made. 

Both models are powered by the Caliber 9F51, a newly developed quartz movement that is also the slimmest in the brand’s 9F family.

Grand Seiko’s quartz calibres have often been overshadowed by its mechanical counterparts, yet quietly admired by those who understand the level of engineering involved. In this context, the 9F51 feels entirely in keeping with the watches’ spirit: precise, discreet and designed with longevity in mind.

Ressence

Ressence has teamed up with Kanazawa-based Japanese artist Terumasa Ikeda on a striking new iteration of its most minimal watch. The Type 9 IKE is, in essence, a study in contrasts. Ressence’s Type 9 platform is already pared back to its essentials as a time-only display, with the brand’s signature rotating discs in place of traditional hands.

Here, that restraint becomes the canvas for something far more expressive. Ikeda’s work, rooted in centuries-old Japanese lacquer techniques, introduces a layered composition of urushi and mother-of-pearl that feels almost otherworldly, and turns minimalism into moving art.

The dial reads like a coded surface with Ressence’s patented orbital display, which gives the impression of a miniature planetary system in motion. Ikeda himself leaned into this idea, drawing inspiration from heliocentrism – a pursuit of truth that once challenged accepted authority – and translating it into a visual language that feels both scientific and poetic.

Mother-of-pearl, inherently flat and fragile, has been carefully shaped to conform to the dial’s convex surface, while layers of lacquer build depth and nuance. The DLC-coated titanium case, bezel and dial components create a stark, almost monolithic frame, allowing the dial to come alive under changing light. On the caseback is Ikeda’s signature.

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Limited to eight pieces, the watch is powered by the brand’s Rocs (Ressence Orbital Convex System), driven by an automatic base calibre, delivering a straightforward hours-and-minutes display despite its unconventional presentation.