Journey to the heart of Teochew food

Chaoshan is rich in history and culture but it is its Teochew cuisine that draws food lovers to this prefecture in China's Guandong Province. By David Yip

AS the saying goes, you are what you eat. But few take it quite as seriously as the folks in Chaoshan, where no conversation can begin without a cup of Gongfu tea, a social etiquette strictly adhered to since the Song Dynasty. The brewing of tea is itself a ceremonial ritual, and often, guests get to sample the best pick of the host's tea collection.

The Teochews - as the natives of Chaoshan are called - guard their history and culture so fiercely that even as other Chinese cities rushed to embrace the modern new lifestyles that economic growth brought, the Teochews paced themselves. Although Shantou was one of the four original Special Economic Zones, the city didn't develop as fast as Shenzhen,...

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