The Logo Effect

THE MONOGRAM WAS the reigning status symbol in the 90s up to the early 2000s, thanks to an era of conspicuous consumption sparked by a booming US economy. That would change when the financial crisis hit in 2008 and suddenly, one person's branded bag became fashion's anathema. Flashiness was replaced by a quiet elegance of logo-free handbags,as queen of minimalism Phoebe Philo introduced her ideology of "less is more" at Celine.

Fast forward to today, where the cycle of fashion has seen logos making a huge comeback. But this time it's less about showing off and more about staking a brand's claim in fashion history. They're certainly not being shy about it either, with logos defining the look of both women's and men's bags. They're also infiltrating the ready-to-wear categories for both sexes, with luxury houses such as Fendi sporting special logo-fuelled capsule collections.

Brands like Dior, Fendi and Gucci who made a name for themselves in the logoobsessed world of the 90's, wasted no time rehashing their archival monogram logos with renewed vigour.

When Alessandro Michele took over Gucci in 2015, he was one of the first few designers to revive the monogram trend by reintroducing the vintage interlocking GGs early in his shows. Many followed suit, including Dior's creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, who also reintroduced Dior's logo print with bags in her debut ready-towear show three years ago.

There was also a slew of new monograms in town this season. Miuccia Prada introduced the Miu Miu monogram in her Spring/Summer 2019 show for the first time since she started Prada's sister brand in 1993.

Riccardo Tisci's debut collection for Burberry was also the brand's first monogram outing. Burberry, of course, was always known for its classic check pattern, but the English brand never had a logo till Tisci. It was seen on ready-to-wear and embossed on the house's signature Burberry TB (Thomas Burberry) bag - another of Tisci's creations.

Stella McCartney also showed a brand new signature monogram - a great addition to her 17-year-old brand now that she's an independent label after buying back her parent company Kering's stake in her business last year.

In our current fashion climate where designers champion the tastes and preferences of the millennials and Gen-Zs, who in turn are obsessed with anything from the 90's, the monogram sits on the throne as fashion royalty. So if you're thinking to splurge on just one luxury item this season, yes - put your money on your favourite initials.