The many-faceted martini

THERE are many theories about how the martini got its name, from an Italian vermouth maker to the Californian town of Martinez. But perhaps this palimpsest of a provenance is fitting for such a changeable cocktail.

A classic martini consists of gin and vermouth. Yet today, almost anything served in a martini glass is given the name. Hence vodka-based espresso or lychee martinis, for instance, which bear little resemblance to James Bond's poison of choice.

"There's a three-step process in what makes a good martini, in my opinion," says Atlas Bar head bartender Jesse Vida. "Firstly, it's the martini conversation, feeling out what you or a guest are looking for: Would you like gin or vodka, dry, dirty, or standard, olive or lemon twist?"