Many foods loaded with sugar, salt and fat are now in

Bakersfield, California

DARK chocolate is in. So, too, is beef jerky. And full-fat ice cream? You bet.

Driven by fast-changing definitions of what is healthy to eat, people are turning to foods they shunned just a couple of years ago. Studies now suggest that not all fat, for example, necessarily contributes to weight gain or heart problems. That has left companies scrambling to push some foods that they thought had long passed their popularity peak - and health advocates wondering what went wrong.