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Maverick winemakers in Bordeaux

Newcomers are bringing a fresh perspective to the tradition-bound wine region

    • Penfolds II, is a newly launched red wine blend - a collaboration between Australia’s leading wine producer Penfolds and Bordeaux’s Dourthe estate.
    • Peter Gago, Penfolds chief winemaker with Dourthe's winemaker Frederic Bonnaffous and Valentin Jestin, Director of Commercial & Marketing of Dourthe.
    • Dourthe's Chateau Belgrave is located in Haut-Medoc, an appellation on Bordeaux’s Left Bank.
    • Dourthe is an established brand founded in 1840.
    • In 2019, Penfolds collaborated with the Thienot family to create Thienot X Penfolds Champagne from the 2012 vintage.
    • French vigneron and trained engineer Loic Pasquet, who owns Liber Pater, produces wines using old varieties and ungrafted rootstock.
    • Liber Pater is now worth 30,000 euros a bottle. This exorbitant price started with the 2015 vintage.
    • Penfolds II, is a newly launched red wine blend - a collaboration between Australia’s leading wine producer Penfolds and Bordeaux’s Dourthe estate. PHOTO: PENFOLDS
    • Peter Gago, Penfolds chief winemaker with Dourthe's winemaker Frederic Bonnaffous and Valentin Jestin, Director of Commercial & Marketing of Dourthe. PHOTO: PENFOLDS
    • Dourthe's Chateau Belgrave is located in Haut-Medoc, an appellation on Bordeaux’s Left Bank. PHOTO: DOURTHE
    • Dourthe is an established brand founded in 1840. PHOTO: DOURTHE
    • In 2019, Penfolds collaborated with the Thienot family to create Thienot X Penfolds Champagne from the 2012 vintage. PHOTO: THIENOT
    • French vigneron and trained engineer Loic Pasquet, who owns Liber Pater, produces wines using old varieties and ungrafted rootstock. PHOTO: LIBER PATER
    • Liber Pater is now worth 30,000 euros a bottle. This exorbitant price started with the 2015 vintage. PHOTO: LIBER PATER
    Published Thu, Aug 11, 2022 · 07:00 PM

    WINE estates in Bordeaux have always been anchored by tradition, almost to the point of elitism. But things have changed of late, which have been viewed by experts as either welcome open-mindedness or bowing to commercialism.

    But one change has been largely positive — a growing diversity in Bordeaux, which has seen new players entering the domain. One notable development has been the unlikely presence of New World winemaker Penfolds, which partnered Dourthe, an established Bordeaux name, for the recent grand launch of Penfolds II. And then there are independent vignerons like Loic Pasquet, the owner of Liber Pater, who believes in rolling out “the real and old taste” of Bordeaux wines and giving customers a taste of the past. 

    Penfolds II, a newly launched red wine blend, is a collaboration between Australia’s leading wine producer Penfolds and Dourthe Bordeaux. PHOTO: PENFOLDS

    Together, they bring new ways of thinking and inventive winemaking that complement the region’s vinous offerings, and could play a role in its future direction.

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