In Mexico for the World Cup? Cartels are the least of your worries

[MEXICO CITY] If you are planning to watch a football match with a cold beer on a breezy summer night in Mexico’s most iconic square, you’ll have to reconsider.

The beer part, that is. 

The government doesn’t want fans drinking alcohol at the official World Cup Fan Fest being set up in Mexico City’s Zocalo. Authorities have blamed Fifa regulations, but that explanation doesn’t make much sense.

Anheuser-Busch InBev, the brewer of Corona and Budweiser, is one of the World Cup’s biggest sponsors and Fifa tends to follow the commercial wishes of its partners. Alcoholic beer will also be sold at Fan Fests in Guadalajara and Monterrey, the tournament’s other Mexican host cities.

The more likely explanation is that the government fears mixing football, alcohol and a massive public gathering in the heart of the capital could spark disorder, an image they don’t want broadcast to the world.

Whatever the rationale, it’s a small disappointment for fans travelling to Mexico for the biggest sporting event on the planet. There will be others, including less-than-ideal infrastructure and organisational hiccups. But I wouldn’t put in security, the big question mark hanging over the 13 matches Mexico will host, at the top of the list.

Yes, Mexico is a violent country and the discovery of clandestine cartel graves near the Guadalajara stadium is deeply disturbing.

When I recently visited the city, the posters of missing persons plastered across landmarks and lamp posts were a painful reminder of what lies beneath the stylish, vibrant capital of Jalisco. There is no minimising a tragedy that has haunted the country, and visitors should remain mindful of the risks that come with any large metropolitan area, including pickpockets.

At the same time, the federal government has prepared an ambitious programme with almost 100,000 security personnel deployed to the cities where the games will be played. And CrashOut, a specialised local outlet, recently reported that cartels have instructed their operatives not to target tourists, football teams or Fifa officials during the tournament. 

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If you’re travelling to Mexico in the coming weeks, you’re likely to encounter more mundane frustrations. Chief among them: traffic and logistics, a day-to-day nightmare that’s likely to worsen with hundreds of thousands of visitors. 

Despite having eight years to prepare, Mexico City’s airport remains a work in progress and the surrounding area is notorious for congestion. Disputes between airport taxi operators and ride-hailing apps have at times resulted in Ubers being seized by the National Guard.

In Monterrey, construction of the Metro Line 6 has snarled traffic for weeks. That’s even before considering possible unrest and protests by groups seeking to get concessions from the government, as we have seen in recent days in Mexico City with the teachers’ union. 

Mobility is probably the biggest weakness of this World Cup in Mexico, so give yourself plenty of time to get to the stadiums – think three to four hours before kick-off. In Mexico City, rely on the Park & Ride bus system to reach the stadium formerly known as Azteca.

The rainy season, with its potential for flooding, and price gouging are additional factors to keep in mind. The US Embassy also warns visitors about the importance of adequate insurance coverage. Be wary of ticket fraud and, while the Mexico City stadium will be cashless, keep some pesos on hand at all times – they’ll help you in an emergency, trust me.

Despite the tournament’s global appeal, the leftist government of President Claudia Sheinbaum never fully embraced World Cup euphoria. The tournament is perceived as an elitist event that diverts resources and attention at a moment of intense tensions with US President Donald Trump’s White House.

Neither Sheinbaum nor Mayor Clara Brugada will attend the opening on Thursday (Jun 11) night; the city didn’t even declare a public holiday to allow workers to follow Mexico’s inaugural match. That official standoffishness may explain why some infrastructure projects won’t be finished on time and some activities will be scaled back.

“I don’t think there’s a lasting legacy,” Alberto Lati, one of the country’s top sports commentators, told me. “Given the scale of the 13 matches, I think it will be fine. It could have been done better, yes.”

Yet, none of this should deter you from visiting. On the contrary, if you want to experience a real celebration around the beautiful game, Mexico is hard to beat. You come to the world’s sixth-most-visited country for the passion, fun and hospitality, not a Nordic transportation system.

Even if you don’t manage to get one of the outrageously expensive tickets, watching a thrilling World Cup match alongside local fans and supporters from around the world is always unforgettable. The host cities and private investors have also planned cultural activities to complement the football, which also casts a spotlight on one of the hottest food scenes, too. 

Mexico’s debut against South Africa in the opening match will be watched by more than a billion people, fixing the eyes of the world for a few hours not on the country’s problems, but on its people, the pitch and what amounts to a global party. BLOOMBERG