Modern Japanese bar food and fun at IKO

NEW RESTAURANT

IKO Restaurant & Bar 65 Neil Road Singapore 088897 Tel: 8866 5218 Open for lunch and dinner Mon to Sat: 11.30am to 2.30pm; 5.30pm to 10.30pm

WHAT'S worse than having a terrible, horrible, no good, very bad day? When you're dragged into someone ELSE's. It's like someone having a nightmare and offering you a front row seat. Before we can say no thanks, been there done that, we find ourselves outside IKO, a brand new mod-Japanese joint whose opening week teething problems suddenly become ours.

"Our power tripped," says an apologetic voice when we show up five minutes before opening time. "Can you wait a while?" Of course, it doesn't take a while. Of course, we stand like miserable heat conductors outside the Neil Road shophouse waiting for someone to flip the right switch.

Finally, the interiors light up in the neon hues that spell IKO on the ceiling, and we are allowed in, relishing the rush of air conditioning that cools our frazzled heels while we happily order. And then: "Uhhhhmm, our exhaust is spoilt. We can't do any hot cooking..."

Ordinarily by now, we would be of the same disposition as one who reaches the head of a CNY bak kwa queue only to be told they have run out of bak kwa. But thanks to service recovery 101 and a manager named Gwen, there is no need to start a riot. In fact, after the initial indifference from the staff at the time we're left outside, she suddenly appeared with bar stools to sit on, interpersing apologies with glasses of cold water and offers of wine. Even inside, thoughtful touches like a cold appetiser - because, no heat - and a little bottle of sparkling sake on the house, plus her genuine sincerity instead of ingratiating service help to put things on the mend. That, and the welcome sound of cooking exhaust roaring into action.

It swings our attention back to the food at hand, which is billed as mod-Japanese - a term that has become as vague and pliable as mod-European. In this case, Japanese ingredients are manipulated in a free-style Asian, European, seen-on-Instagram manner that is familiar, not very polished but has an easy-going unpretentious feel to it.

Uni (S$28) is a take on the familiar uni pudding that's made the rounds of eateries in various guises but they all invariably take the form of some kind of custard topped with this I'm-Japanese proof of identity. Here, the bland cauliflower pudding is not wobbly enough, the dashi jelly too reticent and the generous topping of sea urchin a reflection of the price. But the latter is fresh - just rough on the palate and drowned out by its siblings.

Japanese Amela tomatoes (S$15) are served in wedges in a slightly sharp dressing and withered stringy sea grapes. The tomatoes hold strong thanks to their premium branding, but a more even handed acidity would have made it a better palate cleanser. The tai 'crudo' (S$23) is a decent attempt at being original with its spicy, astringent and almost spicy vinaigrette. But there are too many thing going on with the sliced kumquats, shiso and chilli duking it out with no impact.

However, the food gets better when it gets warmer. The pinkish-hued somen (S$29) is one of the highlights with the slippery noodles bathed in an emulsion of prawn bisque and cream, topped with two big-headed sweet prawns. For a fun snack, gnaw on grilled Japanese corn (S$10) glazed with miso and butter as an umami contrast to its sweet kernels.

To remind you that this is a drinking place, deep fried baby squid (S$14) are exceedingly salty but otherwise satisfying with the requisite crunch. Meanwhile, Angus short ribs (S$38) are sous vide tender and resilient, dressed in a sweetish reduction with cloves of confit garlic. A pleasing char finishes it off nicely.

Scampi donabe (S$46) is a little one-note but not bad when you dig around for the burnt bits and moist chewy rice that's soaked up most of the prawn broth. There's plenty of slightly dry scampi and a shower of orange tobiko pearls for texture.

To sweeten the deal, there's sticky chewy chocolate mousse (S$18) covered with a layer of tangy beetroot jelly, light meringue wafers and crunchy hazelnuts.

IKO may be Japanese in name but not at its heart. Still, what it lacks in identity it makes up for with a friendly, easy-going vibe that - barring any more engineering mishaps - says welcome in any language.

Rating: 6.5

DINING OUT WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

10: The ultimate dining experience 9-9.5: Sublime 8-8.5: Excellent 7-7.5: Good to very good 6-6.5: Promising 5-5.5: Average

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