New meets old and more at Watches and Wonders 2025
Rolex introduces a new model, Cartier revives a cult favourite, and Patek Philippe gets complicated at the annual Swiss luxury watch fair
[GENEVA]
Rolex
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, a striking new collection unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025 – this year’s edition of the annual Swiss luxury watch fair – draws inspiration from the 1969 Rolex Quartz and 1974 Datejust with its sporty integrated bracelet aesthetic.
The design features a fluid, continuous line between the restyled Oyster case and the newly redesigned Jubilee bracelet, extending to the flushed clasp. The seamless integration is enhanced by polished chamfers.
The Land-Dweller’s dial is a captivating focal point, with a unique honeycomb motif achieved through a blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern techniques. The intricate pattern provides a textured backdrop that elevates the timepiece’s display elements, which include open-centre 6 and 9 numerals inspired by the Explorer and Air-King.
The index hour markers feature extended luminescence, ensuring optimal legibility in various lighting conditions.
The transparent case-back – a rarity for Rolex – offers a glimpse into the heart of the watch by showcasing the beautifully finished calibre 7135. This new movement, developed and manufactured by the brand, boasts a high frequency of 5 hertz and incorporates the revolutionary Dynapulse escapement.
A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU
Friday, 2 pm
Lifestyle
Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself.
Patek Philippe
You could say the Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Reference 5308G-001 is a horological tour de force that elevates the complexity of its predecessor, the Triple Complication Reference 5208.
The new white-gold timepiece combines a minute repeater, a monopusher chronograph with a split-seconds function, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar – a quartet of grand complications rarely seen together.
The sunburst ice-blue dial provides a modern and legible canvas for the wealth of information displayed. Day, date and month apertures are arranged in an arc between 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock, with day/night and leap year indicators at 8 o’clock and 4 o’clock, respectively.
The stark-white chronograph hands contrast with the blue dial, ensuring clarity amid the complexity.
Housed in a 42 mm white-gold case with skeletonised lugs, the Reference 5308G-001 is powered by the newly developed self-winding calibre R CHR 27 PS QI. This movement, visible through the sapphire case-back, incorporates two patented innovations that optimise energy management and improve the minute repeater’s efficiency.
The instantaneous perpetual calendar ensures that all calendar displays jump precisely at midnight, while the split-seconds chronograph allows for the timing of intermediate events.
Cartier
This year sees the return of Cartier’s legendary Tank a Guichets, a design that dates back to 1928 and was famously worn by jazz icon Duke Ellington. The reboot focuses on honouring the original design while offering a contemporary update.
The core collection features three models, all sharing the same fundamental design, with a jump-hour aperture at 12 o’clock and a dragging-minute display at 6 o’clock. These models are available in platinum, yellow gold and rose gold.
The dials are minimalistic, and the watches are powered by the specially developed 9755 MC manual-wind movement, with a discreet crown at 12 o’clock.
Adding a touch of the avant-garde, Cartier also released a limited-edition platinum model (only 200 pieces). This version, nicknamed the Oblique, features a rotated display layout, with the hours positioned at the top left and the minutes right-aligned, offering a more abstract and sculptural take on the iconic design.
All the models share a slender 6 mm-thick case that is worn comfortably on the wrist.
Copyright SPH Media. All rights reserved.
