Not your grandfather’s suit: Local tailoring gets a refresh
A merger of past and present is taking over Singapore’s bespoke menswear scene. Local tailors spill on the latest looks and trends
WHETHER it’s a one-time wedding outfit or a daily work ensemble, the perfect suit has never been easy to find.
It’s an age-old problem, not least in Singapore, where the muggy climate almost always promises embarrassing sweat stains and a day of discomfort, even when one is decked out in the lightest fabrics.
Much as they may have been the go-to look of the 2010s, jackets that nip in too tight at the waist and trousers that squeeze one’s unmentionables to high heaven simply won’t cut it any more.
The new look, say local tailors, is a relaxed one that hearkens back to the lounge suits of the 1800s and boxier cuts seen in the 1940s.
“I think it’s a function of our customers growing up,” says Javin They, founder of Common Suits, on the re-emergence of this classic aesthetic.
“In the past, when our customers were a lot younger, they went for this very tight fit, but not everyone (suits) that. Now, customers are coming back to say: ‘Actually, we want to go for a more comfortable fit.’”
The availability of information on suiting online, he adds, has given more people an understanding of how the roomier cuts of decades past continue to be relevant and desirable in today’s context.
Common Suits, which expanded to the Philippines in 2019, now has more customers requesting longer jackets, with enough draping to allow for a greater range of movement. More are getting a feel for “the correct proportion of a suit”, They notes.
Among the clientele at fellow tailor SuitYourself, less restrictive silhouettes have also become increasingly popular, says chief operating officer Lester Quek.
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Founded in 2016, SuitYourself began as a made-to-measure tailoring business catering to young professionals and students. It’s since expanded its range, with plans to offer full bespoke services at its new space in Serangoon, set to open at the end of this month.
“Many people are still stuck on the idea that a suit has to be very fitted, very tight… but that’s the wrong idea,” Quek says.
“Very skinny fits actually came about only after World War II. Suits started as classic gentlemen’s wear, and a gentleman is always comfortable.”
That idea of sartorial comfort is now all the rage, as professionals seek a middle ground between workplace-appropriate attire and the pyjama-chic aesthetic born in the pandemic’s early days.
Samuel Ng, founder of custom clothier In Personam, notes that the transition back to office wear is not an easy one.
“I do think it takes some getting used to,” says the lawyer-turned-tailor, who started his business a decade ago. “The bulk of my clients still work from home, but those who have to go to the office do it grudgingly – and the last thing you want to feel is uncomfortable in a suit.”
Form meets function
Of course, a wearable suit must still be a stylish one. When it comes to tailoring, form and function have to converge, says Common Suits’ They. He adds that his customers want a wide range of movement, but “still want a nice, masculine V-shape”.
Wider cuts, says SuitYourself’s Quek, certainly help to achieve this effect. “(They add) more volume,” he says, while pointing out that a broader jacket and wider trousers can help disguise the width of one’s waist.
Perhaps the most sought-after look today is the “old money” or “quiet luxury” aesthetic, a trend that’s had a chokehold on fashion since HBO’s Succession series first captivated viewers in 2018.
The fad, which eschews brand-name flashiness for a more muted look, has also made its rounds on social media, most notably on TikTok and its counterpart in China, Douyin. Influencers following the trend have quickly risen to the top of the two platforms’ most-followed fashion accounts.
“The “old money” aesthetic has been popular in China for the past one (to) two years,” Quek points out. “And now, it’s slowly coming into Singapore.”
SuitYourself has had an uptick in customers asking for suits made in “earthy tones, like brown and beige”, says Sheryl Ho, the brand’s co-founder.
But “old money”, as its name suggests, is by no means a new invention. This probably isn’t news for anyone who’s picked up a copy of The Great Gatsby, but the division of fashion sensibilities between generational wealth and so-called “new money” has been around for well over a century.
Social media has helped bring the understated aesthetics of classic, established brands, such as Ralph Lauren and Loro Piana, to the forefront.
“A lot of customers bring pictures they’ve seen on TikTok and Instagram and say they want to recreate those looks,” says They. “The funny thing is, they’ve all been around for so long.”
Bespoke for the modern age
But just because today’s hottest silhouettes and aesthetics are borrowed from times past doesn’t mean they’re devoid of modern flair.
“I think it’s a combination of classic menswear and new approaches … to how things should look,” says In Personam’s Ng.
For SuitYourself’s Quek, those new approaches have come in the form of adding details not commonly seen in classic European tailoring. Drawing on fashion from cultures around the globe, these details help give today’s suits a more worldly air.
Gurkha trousers, for instance, recently exploded into the menswear scene. Based on the Nepalese military uniform of the 1800s, these pleated bottoms feature a high and wide waistband, reminiscent of the cummerbund of a tuxedo.
Japan is another major source of inspiration for today’s bespoke clientele. Combining Neapolitan-style craftsmanship, American ease and a focus on Asian bodies, the country’s suiting culture easily translates to the Singaporean context.
One hallmark of the Neapolitan aesthetic that’s found its way into Japan – and now, Singapore – is the unstructured shoulder. Here, there’s no padding or roping, which can trap heat; instead, it feels almost as though one is wearing an overshirt.
This style can easily be dressed up or down, They highlights.
“A navy jacket that’s softly constructed in the shoulders can be used as a standalone jacket to pair with chinos and a T-shirt,” he says. “And if you put on a white shirt and a tie, you’ll look as formal as you should be.”
Beyond the bigger decisions of silhouette and fit when having a suit made, injecting one’s personality into the final garment is another way to stand out from the crowd.
Linings may not immediately come to mind when considering the overall look of a suit, but the subtle flashes that show when one takes off a jacket can tell those around more about the wearer. Likewise, buttons and buttonhole stitching can add personalised pizzazz to an otherwise simple look.
It’s all about you
Ultimately, regardless of what silhouette, fit or details one chooses, tailoring a suit boils down to what one intends to use it for.
“Most people in Singapore probably don’t have a real need for a suit – and there’s no shame in acknowledging that,” says Ng. “I think every man just needs to have what he feels he needs to have.”
Those seeking to fill their wardrobes with bespoke items for regular use could play around more with colours and fabrics, he adds. “You quickly build a collection, and it becomes part of your DNA.”
At the same time, building rapport with a tailor and learning more about suiting can only elevate the bespoke experience.
While one’s first try of a tailored garment may not be flawless right off the bat, the bespoke experience is all about working towards that ideal fit.
“For those who want to explore tailoring as a part of their journey in life, they must understand that things can only get better with each order,” says Ng.
“I think that’s the beauty in handmade things – it’s always about striving for perfection that’s unattainable.”
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