The origins of pen cai

THE origins of pen cai can be traced back to the late Song Dynasty (AD1132 -1279). There are two stories about its origin: one told of the escape of the last Emperor to the southern part of China; and the other in which the scholar-general Wen Tianxiang retreated with his army to Dong Guan, now known as Shenzhen.

The residents, being mostly Hakka, fed the soldiers with whatever they had from their humble kitchens. Food was collected in huge wooden basins and passed to the starving soldiers. Since then, this practice has been preserved and handed down to commemorate the patriotism of General Wen, who was executed in 1283 by Kublai Khan.

Pen cai may look simple but it actually embodies the spirit of Hakka cooking, in which complex cooking techniques are used to alleviate the taste of "poor man's" ingredients. The soul of the dish lies in the number "8" - there are eight main seasonings and key cooking techniques, with eight layers of dishes stacked to form pen cai.