Perpetual precision from Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin
From the elegance of the Master Grande Tradition to the versatile Overseas Ultra-Thin, these timepieces prove that high complications can be as wearable as they are technically accomplished
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Vacheron Constantin has expanded its Overseas collection with two new Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin references, pairing the complication with distinctive new dials. The first is cased in pink gold with a matching dial, while the second contrasts a white gold case with a burgundy lacquer dial. Both come in 41.5 mm cases with gold bracelets, complemented by two interchangeable rubber straps for added versatility.
At just 8.1 mm thick, the models are powered by the Manufacture’s self-winding Calibre 1120 QP/1. The ultra-thin movement incorporates a perpetual calendar – requiring no correction until 2100 – and a moon-phase display. Comprising 276 components, including 36 jewels, it measures only 4.05 mm in height, a technical achievement that underlines Vacheron Constantin’s longstanding reputation for slim complications.
The perpetual calendar is displayed across four sub-dials, indicating day, date, month, leap year and moon phase. Visible through a sapphire caseback, the movement also reveals a 22-karat gold oscillating weight decorated with a compass rose – a nod to the Overseas collection’s travel-inspired ethos – as well as refined high-watchmaking finishing such as Cotes de Geneve, circular graining and chamfered edges.
Each execution brings a distinct personality and the quick-change strap system allows the watch to be switched from its classy 18-karat gold bracelet to a sporty rubber strap without the need for any tools.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985
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Jaeger-LeCoultre has unveiled three new interpretations of its Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985. The latter is a high-complication movement that brings together a perpetual calendar and a moon phase with a flying tourbillon.
Its most notable feature is the cylindrical hairspring, a helical design that ensures exceptional timekeeping accuracy by beating concentrically in every position. This technology was invented in 1776 but largely forgotten until the 21st century.
The new collection includes two platinum models with striking blue dials – one with a polished bezel and another with a bezel set with 72 baguette-cut diamonds. The third is a warm 18k pink gold model paired with a brown dial.
All three watches are housed in the sophisticated Master Grande Tradition case which consists of more than 80 components. With screwed-in lugs and a mix of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces, the case is reserved for only the maison’s most complex calibres.
The dials are also a study in meticulous detail, featuring multi-level surfaces, hand-beveled bridges, and a unique 20-second scale below the tourbillon aperture. A sapphire caseback on the reverse side offers a view of the beautifully finished movement, revealing blued screws, Cotes de Geneve decoration, and a rose gold winding rotor that pays homage to an award given to JLC’s founder, Antoine LeCoultre.
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