Set in stone, driven by innovation 

THERE is something fearless about fitting a natural stone forged in the earth’s crust millions of years ago into a miniature machine capable of measuring time to 1/100th of a second. As Zenith continues 160th anniversary celebrations, there’s no better occasion to go bold than with its most technologically advanced chronograph – one that honours the Swiss manufacture’s heritage by uniting natural beauty with technical brilliance.

A 50-piece limited edition, the Defy Extreme Lapis Lazuli is undeniably one of Zenith’s most striking statements this year. It is also decidedly not a watch for the wallflower.

Framed by a 45 mm case in an arresting combination of micro-blasted yellow gold and polished stainless steel, the watch draws the eye the moment it catches the light. Its openworked dial, carved from lapis lazuli, brings a material with origins older than civilisation itself into a realm driven by microscopic precision and ultra-complex mechanics.

From royalty to wrists

Once considered more precious than gold and long before it appeared on watches, lapis lazuli was linked to the divine, worn by Egyptian pharaohs, coloured the frescoes of Renaissance masters and traded as currency along the Silk Road. Its distinctive celestial blue, created by the mineral lazurite, has symbolised royalty, wisdom and power for millennia.

However, Zenith’s decision to use the stone is more than aesthetic. The manufacture has long associated its signature blue with precision and the relentless pursuit of excellence. Lapis lazuli renders that philosophy into tangible form. Unlike synthetic dials or lacquered finishes, each slice of the natural gemstone brings its own unique traits. Pyrite inclusions, which are gold-flecked mineral specks scattered across the surface, occur in captivating patterns determined entirely by nature, ensuring every dial is one-of-a-kind.

The openworked structure beneath the stone adds depth and texture, allowing light to seep through the translucent surface and reveal glimpses of the movement. Framing it are a 12-sided yellow gold bezel and angular pusher protectors that create a dramatic interplay of shadow and reflection.

Even the gold-plated hands and faceted indices, all coated in SuperLuminova, echo the warm tones of the case and the pyrite specks shimmering across the dial.

Engine beneath the beauty

Beyond the lapis lazuli facade, gold and steel lies one of the most remarkable chronograph movements in modern watchmaking: the El Primero 9004 calibre. This formidable engine remains the only mechanical chronograph in regular production capable of measuring 1/100th of a second. It achieves this through a dual-escapement architecture built for extreme precision.

One escapement runs at 5Hz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, for standard timekeeping, while the second operates at an astounding 50Hz, or 360,000 vibrations per hour, solely for the chronograph. The latter drives the central chronograph hand to complete a full rotation of the dial every second. Watching it in motion is hypnotic – an exhilarating display of engineering made even more mesmerising by the ancient gemstone beneath it.

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The dial layout accommodates these technical demands with clarity: a 30-minute counter at three o’clock, 60-second counter at six o’clock, small seconds at nine o’clock and a chronograph power reserve at 12 o’clock.

A 1/100th-second scale in blue encircles the dial, tying the technical readout back into the stone’s rich hue. The spectacle continues through the sapphire crystal caseback with Zenith’s hallmark satin-brushed, star-shaped rotor, which offers a contemporary flourish from a manufacture that has spent more than a century perfecting the art of precision.

Built to be worn

Despite its precious stone dial and gold accents, the timepiece remains true to the Defy ethos: bold, ultra-robust and engineered for real-world use. It boasts a 200-metre water resistance and features Zenith’s effortless and intuitive interchangeable strap system, operated via push buttons on the caseback.

In keeping with the versatile spirit of the Defy Extreme range, the watch is delivered with three distinct options: a steel bracelet, a black embossed rubber strap with a folding clasp and a black Velcro strap, allowing the wearer to adapt it seamlessly between formal occasions and off-duty adventures. 

More than a showpiece destined for a safe, the Defy Extreme Lapis Lazuli embraces a more contemporary philosophy – that luxury is meant to be experienced. Its design prioritises wearability and robustness as much as preciousness, answering a growing demand from collectors who reject the notion that high-complication timepieces must be treated as fragile investments. Here, gorm and function are celebrated in equal measure in this case, with beauty enhancing purpose rather than overshadowing it.

Read more at https://www.zenith-watches.com/en_sg/product/defy-extreme-lapis-lazuli-06-9200-9004-51-i001