Singapore's 3-Michelin star mantle remains unfilled

Singapore

SOLDIERING on into its third year, the Michelin Guide unveiled its 2018 edition with hardly any surprises at a glitzy dinner event at Resorts World Sentosa.

Despite rabid speculation that two-starred Les Amis or Odette would take up the three-star mantle after the exit of Joel Robuchon Restaurant, that coveted spot remained empty as they retained the same position as last year.

Besides Odette and Les Amis, Waku Ghin retained two stars, alongside Shisen Hanten and Shoukouwa.

The only excitement of the night was when five new restaurants were awarded one star each, while Osia Steak & Seafood Grill was the only restaurant to lose its star. Osia is in Resorts World Sentosa, which was the host venue for the event.

Nouri, Burnt Ends, Sushi Kimura, Jiang Nan Chun and Ma Cuisine made the list this year, joining the likes of Saint Pierre, Braci, Jaan, Labyrinth, Crystal Jade Golden Palace, Candlenut, and Corner House in the one star category.

This year saw a total of 39 restaurants and 44 stars, compared to 38 restaurants and 47 stars in 2017.

Rishi Naleendra of Cheek By Jowl and Sam Aisbett of Whitegrass were both "so, so happy to retain their star."

Chef Ivan Brehm of newly minted one-star restaurant Nouri was feeling "excellent".

He added, "It's great to share this with our friends, encourage and egg each other on. It is satisfying; a great relief to know that work you have done is validated. And that we are able to continue to do what we believe in and get recognition for it."

Julien Royer of Odette was visibly cheerful at retaining his two stars. "Am very happy to retain our 2 stars. It is not easy to achieve high quality and consistency, so is proof that we are doing good," he said.

When quizzed if he was disappointed that he did not receive three, Mr Royer replies that while three stars is "the hope of every single chef on the planet", it is "still an amazing achievement to get two stars so we cannot be disappointed, we can only be happy tonight."

For Sebastien Lepinoy, head chef of Les Amis retaining the two stars means they have "maintained their quality". Three stars? "Maybe next year?" he replies.

While some question if the guide still holds as much allure, Cynthia Yee, spokesperson, Crystal Jade Culinary Concepts Holding, feels that the award has a very healthy impact on the industry as it motivates and reminds restaurants; those who have been awarded and those who have yet to be, to keep striving to be better.

Loh Lik Peng, Founding Director of Unlisted Collection, agrees. "Michelin does have a big impact on the industry as it forced everyone to up their game, especially those who are serious about their food. I don't think it (the Guide) has lost its lustre. There have been a lot of upheavals this year because we have lost seven Michelin stars, due to the closure of Restaurant Andre and Joël Robuchon's restaurants, and that is an enormous amount of stars for Singapore to lose. That said, there are a lot of new entrants in Singapore and I say overall, it is promising and I am optimistic."

Restaurateur-Chef Beppe De Vito, founder of ilLido Group maintains that on an industry level, the stars still make a positive impact as a Michelin star will always remain a desired gain for any restaurant. "That said, one cannot solely rely on the star alone. Running a restaurant requires many commitments with the most fundamental one being to always put the customer first - this has always been our main priority with or without the Michelin star. For us personally, receiving our first star has been an incredibly humbling and empowering experience for all my young team; giving them the confidence to keep working hard towards upholding and exceeding expectations," Mr De Vito adds.

As for the lack of a three-star Michelin restaurant this year, Michelin's international director Michael Ellis says, "it will happen when it happens". His advice to chefs is "Don't cook for Michelin. Cook for your customers. Fill your restaurants with happy customers and if you do that well, Michelin will find you and give you the recognition you deserve."