Melbourne’s restaurant revival
The city’s post-Covid recovery includes a revitalised dining scene, with eateries focusing on local Victorian produce
LIKE MOST CITIES DURING THE global pandemic, Melbourne – which went through more than 200 days of lockdown between March 2020 and December 2021 – was a virtual ghost town, leaving restaurants high and dry and in survival mode, putting creativity on the backburner.
Fast forward to mid-2022, and the landscape couldn’t look more different. The multicultural city has sprung back to life, reclaiming its position as Australia’s culinary capital as it welcomed local and international diners with its signature warmth and hospitality. The pace of growth has continued as the F&B scene teems with restaurants and cafes – whether nestled in laneways or posh hotels.
Melbourne’s cuisine is multifaceted thanks to its rich immigrant history and bountiful produce from Victoria and wine from nearby vineyards. A crop of elegant dining spots that have opened recently focus very much on what’s in their own backyard. From classic European to brasserie and farm-to-table concepts, here are four eateries that are bringing attention to local produce, and cementing Melbourne’s position as a dining destination to watch.
Gimlet at Cavendish House
You can’t go wrong with a place conceptualised by chef-owner Andrew McConnell, the serial restaurateur behind some of the city’s most iconic restaurants such as Cutler & Co and Cumulus Inc.
Gimlet, at the corner of Russell Street and Flinders Lane, officially opened in mid-2020 despite pandemic-related delays. Located in Cavendish House, a 1920s building with period neo-Georgian and Art Deco accents, the restaurant presents a blend of old-world European charm and glamour, yet is contemporary and distinctively Melbourne.
Settle into one of the intimate booths or the elegant upper dining level, and lap up the attention of the polished yet affable maitre d’, as well as the rest of the staff.
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The menu reflects classic European flavours and contemporary techniques that showcase Australian produce. Go luxe and start with caviar and accompaniments, or go light with scallops brightened with blood orange vinaigrette and creme fraiche. While you wait for your mains, munch on crisp puffs of gnocco fritto partnered with parmesan and paper-thin bresaola.
Mains include a well-executed John Dory, lifted with spiced honey and fennel. From the grill are hearty wood-roasted Southern rock lobster resting on saffron rice, or premium cuts of dry-aged grass-fed beef cooked over coals.
For dessert, the manager may insist on the Gimlet-Lemon gelato partnered with a caramelised soft brioche. Trust him. The citrus refreshes the palate and counters the rich caramel flavour.
The night doesn’t end early on Fridays and Saturdays. Nocturnal creatures can score a table for supper from 10 pm. The concise supper menu includes a caviar service, oysters, steak, cheeseburger and sublime desserts. Make your night even more memorable with fine wines and cocktails from the bar.
https://gimlet.melbourne/
Grill Americano
Equally excellent service can be had at Grill Americano, another Flinders Lane establishment. This Italian steakhouse was opened in 2022 by another respected restaurateur – Chris Lucas – known for his modern Asian-inspired joint Chin Chin.
The concept is a reimagining of the brasseries and grill restaurants that were common in Melbourne throughout the 1960s to 1990s. Here, the setting is elevated with shiny silver table lamps, royal blue leather chairs and plush banquettes. Ambience aside, you get warm and professional service from staff who don smart white jackets and black ties.
You also get assured cooking and generous portions here. Grilled steaks range from a hefty 1.2-kg bistecca alla Fiorentina T-bone seasoned with sea salt and rosemary, to more manageable 200-gram sirloins. Complement the proteins with hearty mac’n’cheese perked up with prosciutto.
Besides meat, there’s plenty to feast on including wood-oven baked focaccia which arrives puffy and warm, served with green olive butter or caprese with juicy pomodoro and a bouncy buffalo mozzarella. There’s all manner of handmade pastas to boot. The tangles of pappardelle with wagyu beef and porcini ragu, or fettuccini with truffle, mushrooms and reggiano cheese, are rich and satisfying. Just as slurp-worthy is the more straightforward spanner crab linguine aglio e olio.
It’s hard to resist classic Italian desserts. A must is the tiramisu, or bombolini dusted with cinnamon sugar. Wash these down with Australian wines.
This sophisticated spot is great for special occasion dining or a convivial meal with business associates. If you’re seeking a cocktail or nightcap, the Grill Americano Bar is open Monday to Sunday for walk-ins.
https://grillamericano.com/
Atria
Named after the brightest star in the southern sky, Atria’s unblocked views are dazzling and like no other in the city. Perched on the 80th floor of The Ritz-Carlton Melbourne, the restaurant is especially stunning at sunset. The sprawling restaurant is also the luxury hotel’s all-day dining venue. That means you get to enjoy the changing colours throughout the day and a view of the bay and mountain ranges at a distance.
The menu is shaped by Victoria’s seasonal produce, and pays tribute to sustainable growers, graziers and fishermen. Executive chef Michael Greenlaw – previously from the renowned Vue de Monde and top hotel restaurants abroad – is himself a hobby spearfisher and free diver and often works with fishermen to source sustainable, lesser known fish and seafood from Port Phillip Bay. He eschews overfished species such as whiting, flathead and snapper in favour of more unusual catches such as longsnout boarfish, silver trevally and grass whiting.
The ocean catch that you get to savour includes the daily Victorian crudo – a selection of local seafood, accompanied by white soy and house condiments. Victorian mussels are grilled on charcoal and served with swordfish lardo and lemon myrtle, while Abrolhos Island scallop crudo is complemented by macadamia milk and nashi pear. Aside from seafood, unique creations come in the form of Flinders Island wallaby broth with braised saltbush and fragrant herbs. The sommelier pairs these creations with fine wines from Victoria.
For post-dinner drinks, head over to the hotel’s signature bar, Cameo, on the same floor. There you can enjoy the city’s skyline from another angle. This plush cocktail bar showcases spirits, rare vintages and the art of mixology.
https://www.atriadining.com.au/
Victoria by Farmer’s Daughters
Located in Melbourne’s iconic Federation Square overlooking the Yarra River, Victoria by Farmer’s Daughters is a farm-to-table concept that pays tribute to farmers, producers, growers, and artisans from regions throughout Victoria.
This sprawling venue boasts an open kitchen, main dining room, a terrace overlooking the water, private dining spaces and a 20-seat wine library exclusively showcasing Victorian wines. Look out for an interactive table – hand-carved from reclaimed eucalyptus. Displayed here are a range of seasonal Victorian ingredients that you can touch and smell.
Depending on what’s available, you may get to savour seafood from the waters of the Great Ocean Road and hand-caught sea urchin from Mallacoota, East Gippsland. The cabbage comes from the Dandenong Ranges, the potatoes are from the Otways, and the cured meats are brought in from Oakwood in Castlemaine.
Farmer’s Daughters’ executive chef Alejandro Saravia and head chef David Boyle lead the kitchen. A meal begins with a snack of Otway Gold potato rosti with cured Bass Strait scallop and bacon avocado. This is followed by Oakwood cured meats and trout with celeriac, kohlrabi and smoked eel. Mains include venison shoulder with French lentils and beetroot, while charcoal-grilled meats such as dry-aged O’Connor ribeye are paired with salsa verde, mountain pepper mustard and gravy.
Besides wines, sip Victorian-made drinks from artisanal whisky from the Great Ocean Road to creative gins sourced from across the state. Round off with artisanal Victorian cheeses with honeycomb and quince, and sticky caramelised apple tarte tatin spiked with Starward whisky, with a dollop of creme fraiche.
https://www.victoriarestaurant.com.au/
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