Value in vintage – Melbourne raises the bar on second-hand fashion

MELBOURNE is many things: Australia’s fashion capital, hipster coffee mecca, vibrant arts haven. Now, it’s becoming a shoppers’ paradise for curated pre-loved designer clothing, too. 

As consumers become more eco and value-conscious – global sales of second-hand clothing rose nearly 20 per cent last year to US$197 billion, while other areas of retail flatlined – boutiques that specialise in luxe pre-loved pieces have mushroomed across the city, run by fashion insiders with access to covetable private collections. (One even has a pair of sandals from Vogue icon Anna Wintour on display.)

These stores stand out for their directional curation, with selections that transcend time and focus on cuts, shapes and textures that are as complex and varied as Melbourne’s changeable weather. Many offer hard-to-get archival items to cater to a growing interest in statement-making dressing.

“Over the past year, we’ve noticed a surge in demand for special pieces, from iconic Jean Paul Gaultier patterned mesh and Issey Miyake sculptural plisse, to artisanal Margiela,” says Emily Oberlin, co-founder of Bruce, one of the city’s most established pre-loved designer stores.

Getting to the boutiques often mirrors the second-hand shopping experience: it’s a hunt, with bounty buried off the beaten track or tucked behind unmarked entrances. But step through the doors and the spaces are chic, the service warm, and the selections worthy of a flight Down Under. 

Here’s where to shop the best curations of pre-loved designer clothing in Melbourne.

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Archive at Eastern Market

This elegant yet edgy concept store in the arty Fitzroy neighbourhood is owned by the family behind some of the city’s pioneering high-end boutiques. While most of the space is dedicated to new apparel and accessories from cutting-edge conceptual designers like Paul Harnden, Eseu and Marina Yee, it recently launched an Archive section that, while small, offers the same impeccable curation and an even broader range of fashion-forward labels.

“Eastern Market was always based on ideas of artisanal craftsmanship, individuality and longevity,” says Eloise da Silva, family member and the store’s buyer. “So naturally, our pre-loved Archive was a no-brainer and has been so well received.”

This is a great place to discover pieces from under-the-radar designers: while there are crowd pleasers such as hard-to-find maiden collections from Prada and Raf Simons, the Archive is mostly stocked with less mainstream brands.

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Some rare pieces that have come through include an original-release Carol Christian Poell Drip bag and a pair of one-off Theo Eyewitness Brainwear glasses. “It makes me so happy when pieces from the past that sometimes took a while to sell as they were unknown at that time, now sell so quickly as they have become quite popular,” shares da Silva.

easternmarket.com.au

Vault

Every year, the Victoria branch of the National Trust of Australia – the country’s body for community-based non-profit organisations committed to conserving the country’s heritage – runs a major vintage clothing sale from the donations it receives.

The event has become known for its collectible finds, like Australian designer collections dating back to the 1800s, and has proven so popular, the trust launched a permanent boutique in 2021 to make a curated selection of donations available all year round.

Located in the architecturally stunning Block Arcade in Melbourne’s central business district, Vault focuses primarily on local designers, with pieces that range from vintage to newer, more avant-garde items. “There is great interest in some historic Australia designers like Carla Zampatti and Prue Acton,” observes the store’s retail manager, Jack Fordham. 

Whether you take home a Jeanne Lanvin velvet hat from the designer’s millinery era, or a Mariana Hardwick couture suit from the 1980s, know that your purchase is benefitting more than your wardrobe: All proceeds at Vault go back to the conservation of heritage and land buildings in the state.

vaultvintage.com.au

Bruce

Launched in 2009 as a consignment space for iconic designer clothing (think dresses from Comme des Garcons’ Broken Bride collection or Tom Ford-era Yves Saint Laurent bags), Bruce now has three stores – two in Melbourne, and one in Tasmania.

Its minimalist white showrooms are packed with racks of statement pieces, like a Y’s wool coat from which dangle giant pom poms, and an Oscar de la Renta jacket with an intricate patchwork design.

Founder Emily Oberlin, who runs Bruce together with her partner Daniel Nielsenbeck, sources the selections from private collectors and fashion enthusiasts globally. “We tend to prioritise unique pieces that tell a story,” she says.

Beyond the purchase experience, Oberlin is proud that the store has become a sanctuary for the like-minded: “Over the years, Bruce has evolved from a boutique concept into a community hub for people who share an appreciation for craftsmanship and individuality. It’s been a joy to see how many people resonate with our ethos and the stories behind the pieces we showcase.”

shopbruce.com.au

Love It Longer

Those Anna Wintour sandals? You’ll find them here, in this discreet boutique tucked above a biscotti cafe (which is itself worth a stop). Love It Longer is run by the chic Ferrari sisters, Mattia and Giulia, along with their mother, Armanda, all of whom have fashion backgrounds. 

The white-walled, wooden-floored space feels like a (very wealthy) friend’s walk-in closet, and is filled with standing racks on which float pristine pieces from international and local designers. Which is exactly the effect the warm and welcoming trio want you to have.

“We keep things small and curated because we don’t want to lose that personal touch,” says Mattia. “Shopping for pre-loved should be a fun journey and an individual experience – not intimidating.”

The store, which opened in 2021, has quickly gained a following across Australia for its competitive prices and sophisticated selections that have included rare emblem-emblazoned Chanel tweed blazers and Yves Saint Laurent fringed vests.

Lately, even celebrities’ stylists have popped by to dress their clients. “It’s trendy now among the stars to say you’re wearing pre-loved,” says Mattia. “And people know that when you come here, it’s curated. They get style, attention. And they get honesty.”

loveitlonger.com.au

Dot Comme

The lift isn’t working and there are four flights of unlit stairs to climb. But that hasn’t stopped a continuous stream of shoppers – on a Monday afternoon! – from huffing and puffing their way to the upper reaches of a dilapidated 1920s building on a street crowded with bubble tea shops.

This is the home of one of Melbourne’s cult favourite fashion haunts, an all-white laboratory by fashion collector Octavius La Rosa, where fashion-forward pieces from Belgian and Japanese labels like Walter van Beirendonck and Comme des Garcons take centre stage. (Fun fact: La Rosa owns one of the world’s most extensive Comme des Garcons selections.)

The interior feels like an art installation, with padded white walls and well-spaced clothing racks that invite browsing alongside quirky (albeit not-for-sale) furniture from Italian design group Memphis. At the same time, service is friendly and laidback, which is why the place attracts everyone from fashion students to families.

Even in the unlikely event you don’t find anything to buy, you’re welcome to pull up a chair in Dot Comme’s corner library and soak in its selection of fashion bibles.

dotcomme.net

Two new hotels to stay at while you shop

The StandardX Melbourne

The StandardX is the new, community-focused sibling of the New York-headquartered The Standard brand, famed for its party-ready hotels and celebrity clientele.

Its first property worldwide opened in August in Melbourne, underscoring its promise to immerse guests in local life: The contemporary 125-room rust-and-steel building sits in the heart of the creative Fitzroy suburb, home to arguably the richest collection of independent restaurants and shops in the city. (You can walk to most of the pre-loved stores in our list, and the popular Lune Croissanterie is just a three-minute stroll away.)

Inside, the rooms are compact but cleverly designed – the Cozy King room comes with a fold-out table and a voluptuous boucle stool instead of a regular desk and chair, and is decorated with tiny neon-hued artworks by local artist Jane Sinclair. The thoughtful touches extend to the bathrooms, which are stocked with full sets of amenities from Italian haircare specialist Davines.

Most guest facilities are outsourced in collaboration with the neighbourhood – you can go to a next-door gym for a workout, for example – but the hotel does have an on-site restaurant called Bang, a standout spot serving bold-flavoured, Thai-influenced plates and creative cocktails that is on its own worth a visit. Rooms start from S$200 a night.

standardx.com/melbourne

The Ritz-Carlton, Melbourne

You can’t be blamed for feeling distracted when checking into The Ritz-Carlton’s newest Australian property, which opened in 2023 – the 80th floor lobby has wraparound glass windows that swaddle guests in breathtaking views of the city and Port Phillip Bay.

The tallest hotel in Australia, it occupies the top 17 floors of the 80-storey West Side Place on one end of Lonsdale Street, opposite the Southern Cross train station and within trotting distance of the luxury boutiques of Collins Street and the cafes of Flinders Lane. (Vault and Dot Comme can also be reached on foot.)

The spacious, contemporary suites are kitted out in lashings of luxe, like gold-veined Calacatta marble bathrooms, Diptyque amenities and Frette sheets and bathrobes, while over 1,000 artworks by 12 local artists throughout the hotel infuse it with a sense of place.

If you manage to pry yourself away from your room, the infinity pool on the 64th floor offers swims with spectacular sunset views, or head to one-hatted restaurant Atria, helmed by award-winning chef Michael Greenlaw, for an education in hyperlocal produce. Evenings are best spent at sky bar Cameo, which shakes up antique cocktails made with rare vintage spirits, served with a side of late-night music. Rooms start from about S$550 a night.

ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/melrz-the-ritz-carlton-melbourne