WHILE flowers, fairies and everything nice are usually the starting points for any fine jewellery collection, fearsome beasts somehow figure strongly in the most distinctive of jewellery designs. From Bulgari's serpents to Cartier's panthers, predatory beings make for fierce bling.

And so Chanel has once again turned to the king of the jungle for its latest foray into the world of fine jewellery - a growing segment for the luxury house. Its predecessor, a high jewellery range following the same theme, was presented in Venice, founder Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel's favourite city which is also symbolised by the lion. This latest collection of 16 designs is named Sous Le Signe du Lion, paying tribute to the star sign of Mademoiselle Chanel - Leo. "High jewellery" refers to more ornate and dramatic (read: uber-pricey), special occasion pieces, while "fine jewellery" still uses precious stones and metals, but are somewhat more subtle and suited for everyday wear.

"Aug 19 is my birthday. I'm born under the sign of Leo. Because I'm a lion, like him, I use my claws to avoid being hurt. But believe me, I suffer more from clawing than being clawed," said the legendary designer once, who used the lion as a design motif that adorned the buttons of suits, handbag clasps and in costume jewellery.