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Tag Heuer, Hermes and Zenith showcase exceptional pieces at Watches and Wonders

The Monaco goes back to its roots while the H08 bares all and the Calibre 135’s legacy is reinforced at the annual Geneva luxury watch fair

Dylan Tan
Published Fri, May 1, 2026 · 06:00 AM
    • More than half a century after its debut, the Tag Heuer Monaco enters its next chapter, powered by the in-house automatic Calibre TH20-11.
    • More than half a century after its debut, the Tag Heuer Monaco enters its next chapter, powered by the in-house automatic Calibre TH20-11. PHOTO: TAG HEUER

    Tag Heuer

    TAG Heuer goes back to its history books with the 2026 Monaco Chronograph.

    The 1997 revival, while popular, was only a reimagining of the 1969 original, but this latest version goes back to the original reference 1133 and reinstates many of its defining details.

    The 39mm case is now in grade 5 titanium, with sharper, more angular edges and gently curved sides for improved comfort. The sapphire crystal is closer to a true square, while the redesigned caseback, which features a smaller, curved central section, improves ergonomics and balance on the wrist.

    The dial has been refined with sharper typography and text placement for stronger contrast and legibility. Power comes from the in-house Calibre TH20-11, offering an 80-hour power reserve and a five-year warranty. Three versions are available: blue, green, and a black two-tone model in titanium and rose gold.

    The Hermes H08 Squelette showcases the in-house H1978 S skeletonised titanium calibre through the openworked dial. PHOTO: HERMES / JOEL VON ALLMEN

    Hermes

    Hermes places skeletonisation at the centre of its Watches and Wonders 2026 releases, using openworked movements as a primary design feature.

    The focus is on revealing the movement’s structure, with gears and components arranged to create depth while maintaining clarity. One of the watches to get the treatment is the maison’s popular H08; and the H08 Squelette showcases the in-house H1978 S skeletonised titanium calibre through the openworked dial.

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    The shaped rotor keeps with the black DLC satin-brushed titanium case’s iconic rounded-square profile; and the watch features a structured, woven-patterned rubber strap plus Super-LumiNova hour markers for legibility. 

    Built around the legendary Calibre 135, the new GFJ is a limited edition of 161 pieces in yellow gold, defined by a striking bloodstone dial. PHOTO: ZENITH

    Zenith

    Zenith introduces a new GFJ limited edition, continuing the legacy of the legendary Calibre 135. Named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot, the watch is not a tribute piece but a modern expression of chronometric excellence, produced in just 161 yellow gold pieces with a distinctive bloodstone dial.

    Historically, the Manufacture dominated observatory competitions, earning a record 2,333 chronometry prizes, largely thanks to the original Calibre 135 (1949–1962). Its competition version achieved 235 awards, including five consecutive first-place wins at the Neuchatel Observatory.

    The re-engineered Calibre 135 retains its original architecture while incorporating modern upgrades such as a 72-hour power reserve, COSC-certified accuracy, a Breguet overcoil, and a stop-second mechanism.

    The watch’s 39.5 mm case in yellow gold features a vintage-inspired design, while the dial combines a unique bloodstone center, mother-of-pearl small seconds, and a guilloché outer ring.

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