Tented restaurant on wasteland dazzles with a taste of London

London

AS restaurant locations go, Xiringuito's isn't exactly the best. It's on wasteland at the back of a carpark beside Dreamland Margate, an amusement park in a seaside town that appears unwelcoming on a rainy day. You ascend chipped old concrete steps with a rotting wooden railing, pass a pile of scrap metal and then arrive at a tent.

There is a lot of talk currently about fashionable Londoners buying homes in Margate. The traditional resort - which first became popular in the early 18th century - may certainly be on its way back up. It just has a long way to climb. Xiringuito is a big step in the right direction.