A toast to Vacheron Constantin on its 270th anniversary
The brand unveils new models to celebrate its most renowned signatures
AS THE oldest luxury watch brand, Vacheron Constantin is a big storehouse of how timepieces were made – which was mostly by hand. The veteran watchmaker has kept up with new and better ways of watchmaking, which explains why it has lasted so long.
Yet, old habits die hard, especially in the skills that modern technology cannot replace. Timepieces rolling out of Vacheron Constantin’s workshop, while all contemporary, retain the elegance of the old world – a showcase of the charm of hand-crafted work.
Vacheron Constantin’s watches today reflect the best of both worlds – a marriage of rare traditional watchmaking and modern innovations – as is shown by these models unveiled this year to mark Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary.
Metiers d’Art Tribute to The Quest of Time
Celestial complications and retrograde displays are among the horological works Vacheron Constantin is known for, and it is only fitting that they are picked to anchor this exceptional timepiece created to toast the brand’s “270-year quest for excellence”.
Plenty of thought, skills and man-hours have gone into its making. The double-sided watch is a model of craftsmanship of the highest order and an impressive technical feat that boasts four patent applications. The development work alone took three years.
A work of wonder, the front dial of the new timepiece displays a human figure, set against a jaw-dropping backdrop depicting the positions of the constellations in the Geneva sky on Sep 17, 1755 – the date Vacheron Constantin was born. The arms of the human figure – crafted in titanium with a golden PVD treatment – move to indicate the time on a double-retrograde arc panel.
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The idea for the Metiers d’Art Tribute to The Quest of Time came from a 1930 pocket watch but, while the earlier timepiece shows time only on demand, the new creation offers a “standby” and “active” option. Pick “active” and the hours and minutes are visible at all times on the display. In “standby” mode, the timekeeping function runs invisibly in the background, with the arms in neutral position.
A double power reserve indicator and a 3D moonphase with the age of the moon complement the retrograde display. The six-day power reserve is shown in two sequential displays – from 6 to 3 and from 3 to 0.
In a traditional retrograde display, the hour and minute hands move at different speeds. This problem of synchrony is fixed here, as the Metiers d’Art watch has a mechanism that ensures the two hands jump in perfect unison.
The watch’s reverse dial is a sky chart depicting the sidereal day and the movements of the constellations tracked in real time, accurate to one day of variation in 9,130 years.
The double-sided time is powered by a new and technically innovative hand-wound mechanical movement, made in-house. The mechanism is a feat of miniaturisation, with 512 hand-finished components packed into a 43 mm white gold case.
This 20-limited edition bears the Poincon de Geneve certification, which boasts the highest precision in timekeeping and the finest finishing.
Metiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial
The Metiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial is a set of 12 tourbillon timepieces that celebrate the beauty and wonder of the night sky. Each watch is a dedication to one of the zodiac signs and its associated constellation, highlighted by diamond “stars”. This is presented in an elegant 39 mm white gold case, decked with baguette-cut sapphires that highlight the blue of the dials.
The zodiac-sign motif is, of course, apt for a creation that marks Vacheron Constantin’s 270 years of watchmaking; celestial complications are among the brand’s most famous horological creations.
Decked with sparkling diamonds and sapphires, the 12 timepieces flaunt the brand’s artistic skills in hand-guilloche and gem-setting – skills that require great dexterity and precision, long hours of intense and conscientious work.
A total of 96 baguette-cut sapphires adorn the bezel, crown, lugs and buckle. Each Metiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial watch bears the Poincon de Geneve stamp. The watches run on an ultra-thin self-winding movement made in-house, with 80 hours of power reserve.
Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
A product of the sporty and casual elegant Overseas line, this high-complication model comes in the ultra-slim shape that is another traditional hallmark of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking. The 41.5 mm case of the perpetual calendar watch, with a moonphase display, is just 8.1 mm thin – so thin that only an ultra-slim movement can fit in. The in-house movement, visible through the transparent sapphire case-back, has 40 hours’ power reserve.
The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is available in two versions. The full 18K pink gold model, including the interchangeable bracelet, is matched with a golden-tone dial. It may also be worn with a dark blue or white rubber strap.
The second model sports a striking burgundy lacquer dial, encased in full 18K white gold. The 18K white gold bracelet is interchangeable with burgundy or white rubber strap.
Traditionnelle Openface
Two historical Vacheron Constantin signatures – the open-worked dial and retrograde display – are revisited through this set of three timepieces: an open-face perpetual calendar with a retrograde date display; an open-face tourbillon with a retrograde date display; and an open-face complete calendar. All three are housed in a 41 mm 950 platinum case, which has been given a fine hand-guilloche decoration. The timepieces, in a limited edition of 370 pieces each, are paired with a dark blue alligator strap.
The retrograde date display on the perpetual calendar model and the tourbillon model is found on the upper part of the dial, with its beauty and technical sophistication revealed in the open-worked dial. The perpetual calendar requires no correction till 2100. The moonphases, displayed at 6 o’clock of the perpetual calendar watch, need only one adjustment every 122 years. The watch is powered by a self-winding movement with a power reserve of 40 hours.
On the other model, the tourbillon is located at 6 o’clock, its intricate workings bared in the open-worked dial. The timepiece beats to the rhythm of an automatic movement with 72 hours’ power reserve.
On the Complete Calendar Openface, which also features a moonphase display, the date is found around the dial’s periphery, using a blue hand. The day and month are marked on sapphire discs, in contrast with the blue background of the apertures. The timepiece runs on a self-winding movement with 40 hours’ power reserve.
Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar
A tourbillon and perpetual calendar complication squeezed in a slim case just 11.1 mm thick? Yes, thanks to an even slimmer – 6.55 mm – movement. Nestled in a 42 mm 950 platinum case, this new automatic mechanism, which has 72 hours’ power reserve, also has a patented secure drive system that allows perpetual calendar functions to be adjusted forward and backward, with no harm to the movement.
The movement has been given a classic “Cote unique” finish and is engraved with a discreet 270th anniversary emblem.
A limited edition of 127 pieces, the watch flaunts a gold dial with a Maltese cross-inspired hand-guilloche decoration.
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