THE BUSINESS OF TIME 2026

Grand Seiko pays tribute to Japanese nature in new Evolution 9 watches

Four models revisit three Japanese landscapes with fresh dial treatments, updated case materials and more comfortable bracelets

Summarise
    • At first, the dial of the SLGB007 appears almost uniformly black, but as light moves across its sunray finish, warm undertones and individual ripples come into focus.
    • At first, the dial of the SLGB007 appears almost uniformly black, but as light moves across its sunray finish, warm undertones and individual ripples come into focus. PHOTO: GRAND SEIKO
    Published Fri, Oct 23, 2026 · 07:00 AM

    GRAND Seiko has long drawn design inspiration from the landscapes and changing seasons near its two main watchmaking studios in Japan. Lake Suwa lies a short distance from the Shinshu Watch Studio in Nagano, where its famed Spring Drive watches are made. In Iwate prefecture, white birch forests and the Iwai River form part of the landscape near the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, the centre of the manufacture’s mechanical watchmaking.

    The shifting colours and textures of these settings have been reinterpreted in some of its most distinctive dials. Grand Seiko has reintroduced the core of its flagship Evolution 9 collection with a series of refinements. Launched in 2020 to mark the watchmaker’s 60th anniversary, Evolution 9 traces its design roots to the 44GS of 1967. It was with this timepiece that the brand established the Grand Seiko Style, which used precisely finished surfaces to create contrasts of light and shadow. The line develops that original design philosophy in pursuit of beauty and greater ease of use, from hands and markers that are easier to read to proportions that sit more comfortably on the wrist.

    The refreshed line-up features nine watches: five with Spring Drive movements and four with mechanical movements. Updates include revised dial treatments and case materials, more tapered bracelets and new adjustable clasps. Here, we look at four new models: the Spring Drive SLGB007 and SLGB015, both inspired by Lake Suwa, and the mechanical SLGH031 and SLGH035, whose dials evoke white birch forests and Genbi Valley respectively.

    Day and night

    The Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB007 is the first Lake Suwa model with a black dial. While its hallmark wave-like pattern remains, the darker expression recalls the lake’s surface under moonlight. At first glance, the dial appears almost uniformly black, but as light moves across its sunray finish, warm undertones and individual ripples come into focus, lending depth to the understated design. Broad, faceted hands and applied hour markers catch the light against the dark texture, maintaining the legibility central to the Evolution 9 collection.

    The watch’s 40 mm case and bracelet are made from Grand Seiko’s proprietary High-Intensity Titanium, bringing its total weight to just 110 g. The alloy is about 30 per cent lighter than conventional stainless steel and more resistant to scratches. It also takes a bright polish, which further accentuates the contrast between brushed and reflective surfaces.

    The rich blue dial of the 37 mm SLGB015 shimmers like morning sunlight reflected on the waters of Lake Suwa. PHOTO: GRAND SEIKO

    Where the SLGB007 evokes Lake Suwa after dark, the rich blue dial of the SLGB015 shimmers like morning sunlight reflected on its waters. The sunray finish gives the rippled pattern an ever-changing appearance as the wrist moves. At 37 mm, the watch provides a more compact alternative in a line-up otherwise dominated by 40 mm models. Its case and bracelet are made from Ever-Brilliant Steel, another Grand Seiko proprietary alloy with a brighter white lustre and greater corrosion resistance than the conventional stainless steel used in previous models. Both timepieces are powered by the Spring Drive U.F.A. Caliber 9RB2, which has a 72-hour power reserve. An indicator visible through the exhibition case back shows how much running time remains. Short for Ultra Fine Accuracy, U.F.A. refers to the movement’s annual accuracy of plus or minus 20 seconds. For perspective, that is a deviation of just 20 seconds either way out of more than 31 million seconds in a year. According to Grand Seiko’s research as of June 2026, the 9RB2 is the most accurate mainspring-powered wristwatch movement on the market. Like a mechanical watch, the Spring Drive movement begins with a mainspring, but regulates time differently. As the spring unwinds, it powers a continuously rotating wheel that generates a tiny electrical current. This runs a quartz oscillator and circuit, which monitor the wheel and slow it electromagnetically when needed. There is no battery and the wheel’s continuous rotation gives the seconds hand its distinctive smooth glide.

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    To achieve that annual accuracy, Grand Seiko accounts for the effect of temperature on every quartz oscillator. It tests each one at different temperatures, then programmes the results into the circuit so the movement can compensate for changes in its rate. The oscillator and circuit are vacuum sealed to protect them from humidity, static electricity and light.

    The updated SLGH031 White Birch retains one of the manufacture’s most popular dial designs. PHOTO: GRAND SEIKO

    From forest to river valley

    The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 High-Beat SLGH031 and SLGH035 reflect the natural surroundings of Iwate prefecture, where Grand Seiko makes its mechanical movements. Both have 40 mm cases and bracelets in the brand’s exclusive Ever-Brilliant Steel. Powering the watches is the high-frequency Caliber 9SA5, which runs at 36,000 vibrations an hour and has a power reserve of about 80 hours. Its twin barrels and Dual Impulse Escapement help sustain that running time despite the fast beat. Visible through the transparent caseback, the movement’s curved bridge pays tribute to the studio’s surroundings, recalling the outline of Mount Iwate and a bend in the nearby Shizukuishi River.

    The updated SLGH031 White Birch retains one of the manufacture’s most popular dial designs. Inspired by the vast white birch forests of Iwate prefecture, home to the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, its silvery white hue recalls the trees’ pale trunks. Shifting light brings out the details in its deeply textured surface, evoking the crisp clarity of the highland air.

    The all-new turquoise dial of the SLGH035 Genbi Valley takes its colour from the clear waters of the Iwai River. GRAND SEIKO

    Offering a markedly different view of Iwate is the SLGH035 Genbi Valley. The all-new turquoise dial takes its colour from the clear waters of the Iwai River. Its irregular pressed pattern suggests the rough rock formations along the river. Paired with the vivid colour, it captures the contrast between the bright waters and rugged terrain around it. 

    A closer fit

    Beyond the dials and cases, Grand Seiko has reworked the bracelets on all four models. Each has a more pronounced taper than its predecessor, narrowing towards the clasp for a less bulky fit beneath the wrist. The new three-step clasp allows for adjustments in 2 mm increments without tools or the need to remove a link. The wearer can loosen it slightly in warmer conditions or tighten it when the bracelet feels loose in cooler weather. It is a practical update to a collection that has always placed emphasis on wearing comfort alongside design.

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