A toast to all-season wines

LOOKING for a couple of reds for the family's traditional New Year's Day lunch, with a menu of raw fish salad and noodles, I looked for soft, fruity reds which would take almost any Asian cuisine in their strides. For comparison and contrast, I picked out from Bordeaux, Le Plus de la Fleur de Bouard and from Spain, Gran Clos from J Fuentes in Priorato, Spain.

Gran Clos, 1996, Bodega Jose Fuentes, Priorato Cepage: Garnacha (Grenache) 50 per cent; Carinena (Carignan) 40 per cent' Cabernet Sauvignon 10 per cent

An opaque deep purple-red, with just the slightest tinge of brown; sweet juicy entry, very big, concentrated wine with very dark flavours, very ripe fruit. Good balance, good freshness and medium length finish, leaving palate quite refreshed. It tasted even better the next evening, more open, still very fresh. Very satisfying drink.