Gourmet eco-cuisine in Vancouver 

VANCOUVER’S DINING SCENE IS BUZZING and on the rise. With a diverse range of food cultures and flavours thanks to its multicultural population, October’s inaugural Michelin Guide Vancouver also saw eight restaurants elevated to one star status.

However, don’t expect Vancouver to be crammed with showy fine dining establishments like other famous food capitals. Its eateries are unpretentious for the most part, with straightforward concepts that flaunt ethically harvested and locally sourced ingredients. 

British Columbia is, after all, famous for its pristine seafood, ranging from oysters and salmon to Dungeness crab that thrive in the Pacific waters. You may notice that some restaurants display the “Ocean Wise” symbol on menus to denote sustainably sourced seafood. Furthermore, the 100-mile diet concept, which originated in Vancouver about 17 years ago, spurred the “eat local” movement locally and around the world. 

Here are some eateries of note:  St. Lawrence  It wasn’t a surprise when St. Lawrence, one of Vancouver’s most celebrated restaurants, was awarded a Michelin star. Despite its location near the dodgy Downtown Eastside neighbourhood, this charming restaurant draws plenty of diners from near and far. 

The menu combines classic French cuisine and the spirit of Les Québécois (the people of Quebec). After moving to Vancouver in 2004 to work at several notable restaurants, French-Canadian chef-owner Jean-Christophe Poirier launched St. Lawrence in 2017. Quality sustainable seafood shines in preparations like delicate confit sockeye salmon with pickled lemons and smoked butter sauce. Or poached cod with shrimp mousseline and mussels in white wine sauce. 269 Powell Street, Vancouver, BC. V6A 1G3. Tel: +1 604-620-3800

Burdock & Co Another well-loved restaurant that received a Michelin star, Burdock & Co is known for its Modern Pacific Northwest cuisine, with ingredients sourced from local growers and foragers.

Chef Andrea Carlson launched this cosy farm-to-table neighbourhood eatery in 2013. She studied organic farming and landscape design before making her mark at some of Vancouver’s best restaurants. Carlson was responsible for developing the “100-Mile Menu” at the now defunct Raincity Grill, and became a driving force behind the city’s locavore movement.

Burdock’s menu changes frequently, depending on what’s available from BC’s islands and coastlines. The well-balanced dishes may include succulent dry-aged duck breast with squash, koji puree and lingonberry juice.  2702 Main Street, Vancouver, BC. Tel: +1 604-879-00077

Published on Main Local foodies agree that Published on Main well deserves its Michelin star. The contemporary cuisine is created by executive chef Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson. He says: “Michelin always seemed out-of-reach before, but it’s amazing to finally see Vancouver’s culinary scene recognised internationally.”

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The chef lends a Nordic sensibility to British Columbia cuisine through his use of fermentation and foraged ingredients. His beautifully plated creations are sometimes woven with an element of surprise. Munch on Japanese-style milk buns with bee pollen and whipped butter, or aebleskiver (Danish doughnuts) stuffed with stewed herbs. Dishes like roasted squash with a pepita miso glaze, fermented currants and koji butter sauce are also well thought out.  3593 Main Street, Vancouver, BC V5V 3N4. Tel: +1 604-423-4840

Bar Susu Founded by the same Published on Main team and a 10-minute drive away is Bar Susu . Originally a natural wine pop-up, this outfit located inside a century-old building is now permanent. The atmosphere is convivial, and the menu is built around small plates. Tuck into grilled sourdough slathered with charred onion and eggplant dip with za’atar, followed by grilled sablefish accentuated with pickled veggies and tom kha, a Thai-inspired coconut sauce. If you think natural wines are too funky, the manager is here to prove you wrong with his excellent recommendations. 209 E 6th Ave, Vancouver, BC  V5T 1J7. Tel: +1 604-874-4687

Forage If you’re downtown, head to Forage, a casual spot known for its generous portions. Executive Chef Welbert Choi says that the most popular dish is the bison board – a large wooden board overflowing with different cuts of Canadian bison, prepared multiple ways. 

“We support local producers as much as possible, and sustainability is one of the most important factors when we pick our ingredients,” says Choi. “For example, Forage has used 100 per cent ‘Ocean Wise’ recommended seafood since day one.”  Like the other Vancouver restaurants that follow the same ethos, you know that you’ll leave healthier and happier after your dining experience.  1300 Robson Street, Vancouver, BC V6E 1C5. Tel: +1 604-661-1400