LAST year I wrote a column headed The Rewards of Patience, referring to the benefits of long-term storage of fine wine, in years rather than months. The examples quoted were a Mouton Rothschild 1993 magnum and one of Trimbach's Riesling Clos Ste Hune 1981. Last week two more such bottles were enjoyed which so strongly exemplified this that they deserve to appear in this column.

Nuits St Georges 1er cru Les Vaucrains 1978, Domaine Henri Gouges

Notes: Colour a transparent medium-hued orangey-red, with a magical and beautiful aroma, indeed an ethereal perfume of pure Pinot Noir with strawberries and a light touch of ripe oranges. Haunting. It made you return to stick your nose in the glass repeatedly. On the palate, a delicately light taste of perfectly ripe fruit, with a gossamer transparency. An exquisite wine.