Bulgari’s masterclass in artistry

AS EVIDENCED by the array of spectacular women’s timepieces launched this year, Bulgari reaffirms that it is not just a jeweller, but a horological powerhouse.

With a bold approach to design and deep reverence for its Roman heritage, the house continues to push the boundaries of haute horlogerie by melding tradition with cutting-edge innovation and Italian finesse. For those in the know, Bulgari’s new releases are a masterclass in watchmaking artistry.

These include the Serpenti Tubogas Infinity, which boasts a new modular construction that allows gems to be set on the hallmark wraparound bracelet for the first time, as well as four showstopping secret watches that are powered by the Piccolissimo, a ground-breaking micro-calibre movement that is celebrated for its compact prowess. 

Serpenti Tubogas Infinity The iconic Serpenti is renewed with a new modular construction. Originally created using a laborious technique that involved coiling metres of flat, narrow gold or steel wire around a titanium spring blade, the latest Tubogas bracelet comprises multiple gold rings threaded through the same flexible core. This breakthrough now allows for stones to be set on the wraparound coil, which is a first for the collection.

Since the bracelet tapers from the watch’s wide neck to its narrow serpent-like tail, artisans must create numerous links of different widths before polishing each one and assembling it on the new Serpenti Tubogas Infinity timepiece.

From the reptile’s head – replete with a snow-set dial and gem-set bezel – to the bracelet, glittering diamonds form a seamless serpentine silhouette. The new 35 mm Serpenti quartz-movement watch is offered in two rose-gold variants with a single- (S$93,300) or double-coil (S$121,000) bracelet. 

Allegra After its 2022 debut, the Allegra cocktail watch returns with a more vivacious flair. Adorned in rose or yellow gold, both 36 mm timepieces (S$41,900 each) are veritable treasure troves of gems, showcasing Bulgari’s flair for gemology and exuberant colour palettes.

A luminous mother-of-pearl dial takes centre stage, enhanced by a halo of diamonds. The rose-gold variant delights with pink sapphires, citrines, peridots, pink rhodolites and diamonds, while its yellow-gold counterpart enchants with yellow sapphires, pink tourmalines, citrines, peridots and diamonds. There’s even a fun surprise: A discreet heart-shaped gem at 9 o’clock remains the Allegra’s intimate whisper, known only to its owner.

Divas’ Dream Mosaica This pair of 37 mm Divas’ Dream Mosaica watches truly exemplifies Bulgari’s mastery of jewellery artisanship and watchmaking. A tribute to the mosaics found in Rome’s historic Baths of Caracalla, the fan motif on the dials showcases a captivating play of coloured sapphires – soft pink to deep magenta for the rose-gold piece (S$116,000), and gentle sky-blue to intense azure for the white-gold iteration (S$201,000).

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Each bezel is studded with vibrant gems, leading to the crown’s cabochon-cut diamonds – an unmistakable Bulgari touch. While the rose-gold variant dresses the wrist with a regal purple alligator strap, the blue sapphire piece boasts a bracelet of mesmerising fan-shaped links bedecked in diamonds. Peer through the caseback, and you’ll find the intricate workings of the calibre BVL 191, a mechanical self-winding movement from Bulgari’s Swiss watch manufacturer. 

Monete Catene High Jewellery secret watches Discerning Bulgari aficionados will know that the house has been incorporating ancient Greek, Roman and Persian coins into its jewellery since the 1960s. Fusing history with artistry, these pieces were distinguished by supple, diamond-set gold chain bracelets reminiscent of curb chains (catene in Italian) from the 1940s. In keeping with this creative heritage, a pair of Monete Catene High Jewellery secret watches celebrating the jeweller’s Roman roots were launched in August at Geneva Watch Days.

Swathed with over 42 carats of diamonds, the Monete Catene Dual Time watch’s (S$930,000) rose-gold case with snow-set stones bears two coins of royal Roman couple – Septimius Severus, emperor from 193 to 211 AD, and empress, Julia Domna.

Two emerald cabochons on each side serve as pushers to open the case that reveals a pair of diamond snow-set dials. Featured on the Monete Catene rose-gold and diamond watch with a concealed mother-of-pearl dial (S$284,000) is a denarius, or silver coin, with the effigy of Roman emperor Caracalla, who ruled from 198 to 217 AD. Both timepieces are powered by the in-house Piccolissimo micro-calibre BVL 100 (the dual-time version houses two movements), the smallest round mechanical movement to date.

Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery secret watches The epitome of high-octane Italian glamour that is quintessential Bulgari, the Serpenti Misteriosi secret watches seduce with two new iterations. Each precious hexagonal scale is cast using the delicate lost-wax technique, a skill that dates back over 6,000 years.

The first white-gold model dazzles with 116 brilliant-cut diamonds (S$402,000) set from head to tail, while the second combines rose-gold and black lacquer with navette-cut diamonds (S$457,000) to create fascinating patterns. The lacquering is inspired by the enamelling technique used by the Egyptians from as far back as 2000 BCE, and by Bulgari since the 1960s for the Serpenti.

It takes over 80 hours to polish and assemble the two turns of the Serpenti Misteriosi. Both featuring bewitching emerald eyes, the snakes reveal a diamond-paved dial with a flick of the tongue. The dial can be unclipped and adjusted accordingly to allow the bejewelled snake to be worn on either arm. Like the Monete Catene timepieces, these two watches are also powered by the Piccolissimo micro-calibre BVL 100.