A jeweller’s take on a great artistic voyage

IN THE 18th century, the phrase “the Grand Tour” became popular as a reference to a voyage of initiation across Europe for young male aristocrats to cap an overly academic education, forge their characters, broaden their minds, and ensure their entry into society.

In other words, they took a gap year.

The difference is, this tour would take two to three years and include two compulsory components – a jaunt to Paris and stopovers in key Italian cities.

Like an itinerary put together by fresh graduates who might have partied too much and planned too little, the exact route across Europe was variable. It would depend on current affairs, artistic movements, and personal factors such as financial resources and individual preferences. Plus, they could not consult Google. But most of all, the trip was an ideal form of intellectual, cultural and social education, with sightseeing at tourist hotspots thrown in.

What is undeniable, though, is the priceless exposure to antiquity and varied scenery on this journey.

And so, it is from the rich cultural heritage of such European tours that Van Cleef & Arpels draws inspiration for Le Grand Tour, its latest high jewellery collection.

Across 70 pieces, the French luxury jeweller has translated the artistic flavours of eight destinations into extravagant and precious jewellery, imbuing them with their essence.

Renaissance jewels are interpreted as sculptural necklaces and girandole earrings; bracelets are widened to faithfully reproduce views of historical sites in the style of antique micro-mosaics; and clips featuring vintage cameos and intaglios recall European engraving techniques.

“This high jewellery collection celebrates a tradition that has always fascinated us,” says Nicolas Bos, president and chief executive officer of Van Cleef & Arpels. It also blends the traditions of jewellery and decorative arts, with such objects brought back as souvenirs from the Grand Tour, he adds.

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“For that, we followed the trail of our predecessors and chose cities that were renowned stops historically. We took inspiration from antique jewellery – Roman, Etruscan, Medieval or Renaissance – marrying it with our own heritage, style and craftsmanship.”

In the jeweller’s Le Grand Tour, the voyage begins in London, the birthplace of Wedgwood porcelain. The latter is also the inspiration for its Josiah necklace, where two strands of round and baguette-cut diamonds hug the neckline to culminate in two oval-cut, intense blue Sri Lankan sapphires.

In Paris, the Lucendi earrings, suspended by a triple loop of rose gold and featuring rubellites, mauve sapphires and diamonds, revive memories of ladies-in-waiting and the elaborate silhouette of 18th-century chandeliers in their boudoirs.

To represent a trip to the Alps, the Regina Montium choker evokes a snowy mountain landscape with diamonds, blue-green tourmalines, sapphires, aquamarines and tanzanites.

After crossing the Alps, the maison explores Italy, with the cities of Venice, Rome, Florence and Naples represented via tableaux on precious bracelets featuring architectural lines and luminous colours.

These bracelets are like appetisers of more dramatic jewellery to come from each city. Elaborate, theatrical necklaces reflect the splendour of the destinations and their architecture; earrings recall romanticism; rings pay tribute to great masters; and brooches speak of rich history, fruit and flowers, and even still life.

Finally, in Baden-Baden, the Schappel ring bursts forth in vivid, joyful hues to reflect the German city’s traditional festivals, where flamboyant crowns are decorated with multicoloured beads, ribbons, and flowers. We also love three clips designed as luxuriant trees, akin to miniature sculptures.

To be sure, the Grand Tour has provided inspiration in jewellery design for other brands as well, and Gucci is one example. But the beauty lies in each maison’s interpretation, and Van Cleef & Arpels has certainly made the most of the journey to show off its creativity, savoir-faire and expertise in gems.

In the process, it has reasserted its affinity with the arts, while women now have a chance to partake in that great voyage – gap year not required.