Patek Philippe’s Christmas gems

THERE WON’T BE VISIONS OF sugar plums dancing in your head this Christmas. Think glittering gems instead, thanks to Patek Philippe’s high jewellery timepieces that will make the ideal ornaments for your favourite lady’s wrist.

The luxury brand has added a minute repeater to the Aquanaut Luce, its “modern casual chic” women’s line. The grand complication comes in a choice of two high jewellery models wrapped in a rainbow of multicoloured sapphires and diamonds. Rolled out in November, the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater References 5260/355R-001 and 5260/1455R-001 arrived just in time for the festive season.

Patek Philippe also released five new ladies’ jewellery watches in the iconic Nautilus range, in varying colour dials and straps. Three of the watches – References 7118/1451G-001, 7118/1452G-001 and 7118/1453G-001 – are similarly paved with precious stones in a “snow” setting, while the remaining two feature a gem-set bezel around a purple dial.

Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Ref 5260/355R and 5260/1455R

This grand complication model is a first for the Aquanaut Luce. A quartz-driven, two-time-zone travel complication joined the collection in 2021, followed by an automatic flyback chronograph the next year. Earlier this year, a patented annual calendar was added.

The momentum has picked up with the minute repeater. A product of Patek Philippe’s mastery of grand complications and gem-setting, this self-winding model features sapphires and diamonds in many colours. The gems are laid out using the “invisible setting” technique, which requires great skill to specially cut each stone with lateral grooves so it can be embedded in tiny gold rails that become invisible once the stone is set.

The stones appear not only seamless; their brilliance is also magnified. Indeed, Ref 5260/355R in rose gold dazzles in seemingly endless diamonds and sapphires.

The original shape of the watch’s octagonal bezel is lit up by a double row of baguette-cut gems. The dial’s centre sparkles with invisible-set diamonds, while 12 multicoloured sapphire hour-markers imitate the bezel’s rainbow gradient.

Adding colour to the timepiece is a composite strap, which comes in matte beige, matte white or red. The strap is secured by a rose gold patented fold-over clasp, studded with diamonds.

Ref 5260/1455R is paired with a rose gold bracelet. Outshining Ref 5260/355R in brilliance, this high jewellery model is dressed to the hilt in diamonds, sapphires and rubies – from the case down to the minute-repeater slide and bracelet. The latter also has a patented fold-over clasp, secured by four independent catches.

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Both the 5260/355R and 5260/1455R are powered by Calibre R 27, a meticulously finished in-house automatic movement gleaming with an off-centre 22-karat gold mini-rotor. The minute repeater mechanism, which can be viewed through the sapphire crystal case-back, chimes on demand on two classic gongs the hours, quarters and minutes, set off simply by pressing the slide-piece on the left side of the rose gold case.

Ladies’ Nautilus Ref 7118/1451G-001, 7118/1452G-001, 7118/1453G-001

The new 7118 series is decked out in brilliant-cut diamonds, paired either with sapphires (Ref 7118/1451G), rubies (Ref 7118/1452G) or emeralds (Ref 7118/1453G) – all set by the “snow setting” technique, where stones of different sizes and shades are laid together to minimise the gold surface visible between them. The idea is to create reflections, like snow glittering in the sun. The blend of creativity and know-how involved transforms each watch into a unique work of art.

The three models display a dial in white gold nestled in a 35.2-mm wide white gold case. The dial is lined with rows of diamonds shimmering in a wave-like pattern, typical of the Ladies’ Nautilus. Alpha-style charcoal grey hour and minute hands in white gold encircle the dial, its circumference of 12 ogival-shaped white gold hour markers adorned with sapphires, rubies or emeralds. The hands glow with white luminescence in the dark.

The timepieces run on a self-winding movement which showcases a refined finish and a central rotor in 21-karat gold, both visible through the sapphire crystal case-back. The watch’s bracelet is fitted with the patented fold-over clasp, which ensures optimal comfort on the wrist.

Ladies’ Nautilus Ref 7010R-013, 7010/1R-013

These are the newest additions to the 7010 series, first launched in 2013. The 7010 model, a 32-mm quartz watch crowned with a gem-set bezel, has gone through many iterations. The latest one flaunts a new purple lacquered dial in a rose gold case, worn with a matching gold bracelet (Ref 7010/1R) or purple strap in a composite material (Ref 7010R). 

Created by 50 fine coats of lacquer layered on top of one another, the dial of the timepieces, true to a Ladies’ Nautilus model, displays a wave-like pattern. Standing out against the purple background are ogival-shaped hour markers, applied Arabic numerals and alpha-style hour and minute hands – all in rose gold and gleaming with white luminescence.

The small case catches the eye with its alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes, while the octagonal bezel shines with meticulously set diamonds. The satin-brushed and polished bracelet, secured by the patented fold-over clasp, plays on contrasting finishes to highlight its original construction.

Prices available on request