A rare destro and more Nautilus from Patek Philippe

Dylan Tan
Published Fri, Oct 28, 2022 · 05:50 AM
    • The Ref 5373P-001 is the first Patek Philippe destro chronograph in 95 years and its first ever lefty that also boasts a perpetual calendar complication.
    • The Ref 5373P-001 is the first Patek Philippe destro chronograph in 95 years and its first ever lefty that also boasts a perpetual calendar complication. PHOTO: PATEK PHILIPPE

    THE Nautilus Ref 5811 might have stolen the limelight during Patek Philippe’s second drop this year, but there were plenty of other goodies as well.

    Here, we take a closer look at two other cult Nautilus models that have been given new facelifts, Patek’s first ever left-handed split-seconds monopusher chronograph with perpetual calendar, and the first ever stainless steel version of a cult model.

    The Ref 5990 Travel Time Chronograph now comes in steel with a new sunburst blue dial. PHOTO: PATEK PHILIPPE

    Travel-Time Chronograph Ref 5990/1A-011

    A Nautilus in steel is becoming as rare as hen’s teeth, but the Ref 5990/1A-011 is one of those.

    Not only that, the reference now gets a new blue dial with sunburst finish and outwards black gradation.

    But the clincher has to be the self-winding calibre CH 28-520 C FUS – which is not only practical for travellers or people who work across two time zones, but also extremely user-friendly.

    Without taking off the watch, the wearer can set local time (indicated by the solid hand) by pressing the pushers at the 9 o’clock position on the case. That clever design also helps the watch to retain its signature Nautilus aesthetic.

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    Besides the travel time function, other useful complications on the Ref 5990 include the flyback chronograph, the day/night indicator, and the analogue date at the 12 o’clock position that is synchronised with the local time.

    The asymmetrical dial of the Ref 5712 makes it instantly recognisable from a distance. PHOTO: PATEK PHILIPPE

    Moon Phase Ref 5712/1R-001

    The first thing you’d notice about the Ref 5712 is the unusual placements of the sub-dials, which give the watch an asymmetrical look.

    But that is also what makes the watch stand out and recognisable from a distance.

    The reference is now presented in a rose gold case and, for the first time, with a matching rose gold bracelet as well. It was previously only available with an integrated leather strap.

    Complementing the rose gold case and bracelet is a soothing brown sunburst dial with black gradation to the periphery.

    The Ref 5373P-001 will be crafted in small series, says Patek Philippe. PHOTO: PATEK PHILIPPE

    Split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar for left-handers Ref 5373P-001

    Rarer than a Nautilus for sale in a boutique is a left-handed Patek timepiece, but lo and behold, we get one this year – crafted in small series, no less – with the Ref 5373P-001.

    According to the brand’s press release, this is the “first chronograph for left-handers in Patek Philippe’s recent history”; and a Google search revealed that the last time it made one (literally, as it was a unique piece) of these was almost a century ago, back in 1927.

    This is, however, the first time Patek has attempted a lefty split-seconds chronograph that also has a perpetual calendar.

    The manually wound calibre CHR 27-525 PS Q movement features two emblematic Patek complications – the split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar. PHOTO: PATEK PHILIPPE

    Incidentally, this new watch is the successor to the Ref 5372 predecessor, but with inverted displays and operating elements.

    The manually wound calibre CHR 27-525 PS Q movement is the thinnest of its kind ever made by Patek, but it still features two of the brand’s emblematic complications – the split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar.

    The carbon motif in the middle of the dial is a subtle nod to the Ref 6007 and the decor of the Plan-les-Ouates manufacture. PHOTO: PATEK PHILIPPE

    World Time Flyback Chronograph Ref 5935A

    The new self-winding Ref 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph is the first stainless steel of a cult model.

    The watch combines two of Patek Philippe’s prized complications – a flyback chronograph and a Travel Time function – so it’s not difficult to see why the model is so popular.

    The shimmery salmon dial not only gives the Ref 5935A a cool vintage look, but the carbon motif in the centre – last seen on the Ref 6007 from 2020, a limited-edition Calatrava that released to commemorate the completion of the new manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates – also adds a touch of sportiness.

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