Tudor’s subtle makeovers

WHEN IT COMES TO TUDOR, the devil is in the details. And only a keen eye can tell when the brand has refreshed its models. The changes can be so subtle that its new watches are indistinguishable from the old, at least at first glance. But inside is where much of the tweaks take place, with some understated updates to their aesthetic. Such is the case with the latest Black Bay collection, freshly rolled out of its new state-of-the-art factory. Snug-fitting, more accurate, user-friendly and even better looking – fans will not be disappointed.

Black Bay

The Black Bay with the burgundy bezel is one of Tudor’s most recognisable models. It was first unveiled as the Heritage Black Bay diver’s watch, which kicked off the Black Bay line in 2012. The new version is almost identical to the original, save for a thinner case profile and a redesigned screw-down crown with the Tudor rose. The bracelet is also different; the watch is paired with either a satin-brushed three-link steel, or a five-oval-shaped-link brushed and polished steel bracelet.

There’s a bigger, but less visible, difference. Unlike the earlier two models, this third-generation model is certified as a Master Chronometer by Switzerland’s Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS); only two other Tudor models have earned the certification. This means, among other things, the new Black Bay watch is highly anti-magnetic (resistant to a magnetic field of at least 15,000 gauss), waterproof to great depths (200 metres) and a very precise timekeeper (daily variation of no more than (0 +5)).

The METAS certification is a higher bar to cross than the COSC certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, which is the more common industry standard. Watches must be COSC certified before they qualify for METAS certification.

The latest Black Bay is powered by Tudor’s Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, an automatic movement which is ‘weekend-proof’ – meaning that it has 70 hours’ power reserve, so the watch can be taken off on Friday evening and put back on again on Monday morning, without having to wind it. 

Price: S$6,220 (five-link bracelet), S$6,070 (three-link bracelet), S$5,780 (rubber strap).

Black Bay 54

While the Black Bay 54 is introduced as “a new addition to the Black Bay line”, it’s actually a downsized version of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight  launched in 2018. Like all Black Bay diver’s watches, the Black Bay 54 traces its roots to the Tudor diver’s watches of the 1950s – specifically, to Tudor’s first diver’s watch released in 1954, the reference 7922. 

While it’s fitted with a modern in-house self-winding movement, Calibre MT5400, the stainless steel Black Bay 54 is purist-driven and is as close as you can get to the original. The 37mm small case (against 39mm for Black Bay Fifty-Eight), especially, has all the classic proportions of yesteryear – and there’s no date on the dial. The seconds hand harks back to the look of the first Tudor diver’s watch with a lollipop design. 

Price: S$5,320 (bracelet), S$5,030 (rubber strap).

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Black Bay GMT

Thanks to the burgundy and blue rotatable bezel, a nod to the early days of high flying, the Black Bay GMT is still recognisable with a new face: an opaline dial that’s not really white but a bit silvery. The new dial, framed by a 41mm stainless steel case, is given a matte white-grey finish, while the markers on it are darkened to provide a noticeable contrast. Apart from recalling the mid-century boom in commercial aviation, the dial is also highly legible.

The refreshed multiple time-zone complication watch runs on an in-house automatic movement, Calibre MT5652, with 70 hours’ power reserve. It may be worn with a fabric strap woven in France using a traditional method, or a steel bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets Tudor made in the 1950s and 1960s. 

Price: S$6,020 (bracelet), S$5,580 (fabric strap).