Watches to keep track of

AMONG the watches rolled out in recent months, standouts include timepieces by Omega, H Moser & Cie, and Franck Muller. Here’s why:

The First Omega in Space

The first Omega watch in space, identified by its reference number CK 2998, is back in production. It now comes with a modern Co-Axial Master Chronometer update, featuring the highest precision, performance and anti-magnetic resistance. 

Nasa astronaut Walter “Wally” Schirra bought and wore this model as his personal watch on the Sigma 7 mission of the Mercury programme, launched on Oct 3, 1962. These days, the watch is better known as “The first Omega in space”.

First released in 1959, it represented the second generation of the Speedmaster family. The model is recognisable by its slender Alpha hands, symmetrical case and black bezel, different from the first Speedmaster rolled out in 1957.

The updated version follows the 1959 model, housed in a symmetrical 39.7 mm wide case in polished-brushed stainless steel. The bezel in black aluminium has the Speedmaster’s essential tachymeter scale, including the “Dot Over Ninety” synonymous with the earliest Speedmaster models.

Beneath a new hesalite-like sapphire crystal, the watch flaunts a CVD-coated grey-blue dial, a replication of the tone of some CK 2998 watches from the 1960s. In keeping with its brand heritage, it sports two vintage Omega logos, one on the dial and another on the crown.

Stamped on the case-back is a seahorse medallion with the engravings “SPEEDMASTER”, “THE FIRST OMEGA IN SPACE” and “OCTOBER 3, 1962”. The new watch may be worn with a leather strap (in black or brown) or a full metal bracelet.

Pioneer Retrograde Seconds

The ingenuity of this new H Moser & Cie’s complication lies in the nakedness of its mechanism, designed to be both technical and playful.

Nestled at 6 o’clock, the fascinating mechanism is a retrograde complication that displays a hand snapping back to its starting position every 30 seconds, providing a captivating burst of choreographed animation. 

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The retrograde seconds silver-moulded skeletonised bridge recalls Moser’s emblematic tourbillon bridge. A two-tone disc beneath the snail tells whether the watch is in the first or second 30-second period of the cycle, adding a touch of dynamism and visual appeal to the whole. 

Resembling measuring instruments and speedometers, the 30-second retrograde complication sits perfectly well with the sporty aesthetic of the brand’s Pioneer line, and is water-resistant to 120 m.

The 42.8 mm wide timepiece, encased in solid steel, remains true to Moser’s minimalist philosophy. Like a secret signature, the logo is barely visible in transparent lacquer on the midnight blue fume dial.

At the heart of the timepiece beats an in-house automatic movement that boasts a power reserve of three days.

Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

The Vanguard Damascus Steel watch pays tribute to local watch retailer Sincere Fine Watches’ 70th anniversary and is a fine model of Franck Muller’s dedication to innovation and craftsmanship, particularly in pushing the boundaries with novel material and designs.

Featuring an open-worked hand-wound movement with a power reserve of seven days – the mechanism is visible on the dial – the timepiece is crafted from Damascus steel, a unique material combining different alloys of steel.

As the name suggests, Damascus steel comes from the city of Damascus in Syria, and is renowned for its incredible strength and distinctive layered patterns. Known for its durability and striking appearance, it is shock-resistant and free of impurities, which enables the watch’s movement to function freely.