Back in black

At WATCHES & Wonders 2024, IWC unveiled a refreshed line-up of Portugieser models in four striking new dial colours, each representing different phases of the day and night. While Horizon Blue, Dune, and Silver Moon showcase the collection’s versatility, it is the Obsidian dial that steals the spotlight.

Coupled with its highly polished lacquered finish, the dark, mysterious hue exudes opulence and sophistication, making it perfect for the year-end festivities. The luxurious, ethereal black also lends an alluring elegance to the timepiece, allowing the wearer to effortlessly transition between formal occasions and celebratory gatherings.

Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night

This creation is a masterpiece that embodies the essence of IWC’s technical expertise and design excellence. Set against the rich Obsidian lacquer dial within a 42.4 mm Armor Gold case is a flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Comprising 56 components and weighing only 0.675g, it is engineered to counteract the effects of gravity for superior timekeeping accuracy.

Powering this mechanism is the hand-wound IWC 81925 Calibre, which is visible through the sapphire glass caseback and offers an impressive 84-hour power reserve. Enhanced by Diamond Shell technology, a specialised diamond coating applied to the silicon escapement, the movement operates with reduced friction, allowing for a smoother flow of energy and exceptional reliability.

The timepiece’s innovative 24-hour day and night indicator is represented by a small rotating sphere at 9 o’clock. Featuring bright and dark hemispheres, it rotates once every 24 hours, depicting the eternal cycle of day and night that is poetic, yet technically impressive. The indicator can be viewed from both the dial and movement side, adding an element of fascination and underscoring IWC’s expertise in astronomical complications.

Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 

IWC has long been synonymous with exceptional craftsmanship and innovative complications, and few horological feats embody this better than its mastery of the perpetual calendar. It was developed in the 1980s by Kurt Klaus, who joined IWC in 1957 as a young watchmaker, and later went on to head its R&D team for almost 50 years.

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Klaus, who turns 90 tomorrow, created an ingenious, user-friendly mechanism that simplified the setting of calendar displays – date, day, month, year and moon phase – by allowing all of them to be set via the crown.

The relaunched Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 in Obsidian encapsulates IWC’s engineering prowess and aesthetic finesse. Housed in 18k Armor Gold, a proprietary alloy that is harder and more wear-resistant than conventional red gold, this 44.4 mm model pays homage to the heritage of the Portugieser collection, while offering a modern twist with its refined design elements.

Powered by the IWC-manufactured 52616 Calibre with a seven-day power reserve, the new reference boasts a fully reworked case construction with a more slender case ring, in combination with double box-glass sapphire crystals that make the watch lighter and more elegant.

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A new era of horological excellence

Aside from the new and refined dial graphics, the Obsidian dial is finished with 15 layers of transparent lacquer and polished to a high gloss, which offers a visual depth that draws the eye. Of course, IWC fans will appreciate the hallmark Double Moon display at 12 o’clock that is inspired by nautical instruments. 

Portugieser Chronograph

The appeal of the Obsidian dial extends to the sporty, elegant Portugieser Chronograph. Framed by a 41 mm red gold case, the dial’s high-gloss lacquered finish stands out as a key feature. Crafted through a meticulous process involving over 60 precise steps, each dial achieves exceptional depth and dimension. Even the printing, executed with a specialised technique, enhances its three-dimensional look, while the appliques are individually hand-mounted with utmost care.

Driving the watch is the IWC-manufactured 69355 Calibre, a reliable movement with a classic column-wheel design. This robust mechanism ensures precise timekeeping and effortless operation of the chronograph function. Enhancing legibility and a distinguishing design feature of the Portugieser Chronograph is the vertical arrangement of the subdials, with the small seconds at 6 o’clock, and the chronograph minutes at 12 o’clock.

The Portugieser Automatic line has been given a fresh update with the introduction of new dials and a re-engineered case design, with double box-glass sapphire crystals that add a contemporary spin to the classic design. Two standout references with Obsidian dials with various case dimensions cater to different preferences.

Portugieser Automatic 40

This rendition distils the essence of the Portugieser design into a more compact 40 mm size. The dial layout, with the small seconds at 6 o’clock, remains clean and open to evoke the elegance of the original 1939 reference. This model is powered by the IWC-manufactured 82200 Calibre, featuring the brand’s signature Pellaton winding system, reinforced with virtually wear-free ceramic components for maximum reliability and performance.

Portugieser Automatic 42

On the other hand, this version stays true to the larger case size that has been the collection’s defining feature. With its balanced dial design showcasing the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock, this model retains the DNA of the Portugieser Automatic introduced in 2000. Visible through the exhibition caseback, the IWC-manufactured 52010 Calibre ensures a seven-day power reserve, making it as functional as it is beautiful​.