Bell & Ross: The X-factor
Bell & Ross supercharges its most urbane collection with an exceptional movement and unusual case construction
BACK in 2019, when the higher-ups at Bell & Ross premiered the most radical update to the BR-01 – the company’s signature square cased, aviation instrument panel-inspired watch – little did they expect that their new offering would prove to be one of the most divisive yet rewarding in the brand’s history.
The collection in question was the BR-05, a watch that looks unequivocally like a Bell & Ross creation, yet kind of unfamiliar at the same time. For one, all the trademark features are there. Like the iconic BR-01 watches, the BR-05 is distinguished by a round dial nestled within a cushion square-shaped case, accentuated by exposed screws that hold down the bezel, and large Arabic hour numerals at the quarters for superb legibility.
However, the BR-05 also emanates a newfound dress watch-like sophistication that sets it apart. The watch features refined contrasting polished and brushed finishes on the steel case, paired with a three-link steel bracelet that echoes the same finishing as the case. The BR-05 recalls the pioneering luxury sports watches of yore – specifically, the first wave of Royal Oaks and Nautiluses that emerged from the 1970s – and immediately incited debate.
Was Bell & Ross exhibiting boldness by reinterpreting one of its most reliable designs? Or was it just trying to insert itself into the zeitgeist, given the increased demand for such watches of late?
Generation X
Fast forward two years and it is clear where the chips have fallen. To call the BR-05 Bell & Ross’ latest icon would be an understatement. The hotly coveted collection has hit the ground running, finding favour among Bell & Ross loyalists while converting new fans with its take on sporting luxury. The brand wasted no time in bolstering the collection, too, with bi-metal models and variants with decorative cases, as well as GMT and chronograph complications.
Making the strongest case for the ascent of the BR-05 family yet, Bell & Ross switches things up further this year with the BR-X5. Going by the tagline Advanced Time Instruments, the new BR-X5 combines the aviation-inspired origins of the BR-01 and the urbane elegance of the BR-05, and elevates both with modern, industrial-inspired design and technical dynamism.
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At the heart of the BR-X5 is a new automatic movement. A COSC-certified engine, the Calibre BR-CAL.323 guarantees highly rated precision of +4/-6 seconds daily accuracy, as well as 70 hours of power reserve. This means you can leave the watch untouched on your dresser over the weekend and it’ll still be ticking strong when you wear it on Monday.
The new engine is also especially significant as it marks Bell & Ross’ first collaboration with Kenissi, a rising star in movement making circles.
Kenissi is a joint-venture between Tudor, Chanel and Breitling, and the company has been making a name for itself by supplying exclusive movements to the aforementioned esteemed watch marques, among several others. Bell & Ross is evidently pleased with the outcome of the fledgling partnership.
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In fact, the brand is so confident of the Calibre BR-CAL.323’s qualities, it has issued a five-year warranty for the BR-X5, exceeding the standard two-year warranty for other collections.
Reimagining refinement
Clearly, the performance-driven automatic movement has informed the rest of the watch. The movement’s uncompromising robustness, architectural finesse and huge power reserve are expertly expressed through the BR-X5’s design and construction.
Like before, the circle-within-a-square aesthetic anchors the BR-X5, serving as a signature reference. The dial, which comes in black or ice-blue – and similarly inspired by airplane instrument panel gauges like so many Bell & Ross watches – is distinguished by a power reserve indicator and quick-change date display, both of which are key technical features of the BR-X5.
These aside, the rest of the watch’s case is a souped-up version of previous iterations. This is most evident when one checks out the BR-X5 from the side and sees a semi-hollowed-out chassis that endows the watch with a tech-y, industrial disposition.
The case’s intriguing design serves two purposes. Firstly – and obviously – to amplify the BR-X5’s contemporary spirit. And secondly, to fortify the watch’s toughness and water resistance while ensuring lightness. The monobloc steel case features a solid centre that anchors the hollowed-out sides and crown guard.
Elsewhere, rubber rings are secured to the top and bottom of the case, with everything held together by the four exposed screws to ensure the BR-X5’s 100 m water resistance.
Whether in terms of looks or features, the BR-X5 is resolutely writing the next chapter in the evolution of Bell & Ross’ trademark aesthetic.
Given the brand’s recent track record, however, reactions to this bold and modern new offering ought to be a lot less contentious.
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