Cartier refreshes its iconic Tank lineup

YOU might have noticed Rami Malek’s enigmatic visage plastered all over billboards, websites and publications (such as this one) recently, an elegant Tank Francaise strapped on his wrist. 

Or perhaps you’ve seen a couple of Jisoo’s more casual Instagram posts in which she’s paired her outfits with a Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Must or Tank Solo. She was a Tank fan even before being appointed as Cartier ambassador in 2022. 

And so were the likes of Jackie O, Princess Diana, Andy Warhol and Muhammad Ali – long before it became the norm for luxury brands to anoint celebrities and influencers as envoys. 

The point is, Cartier’s Tank watch has the kind of universal appeal that other watchmakers can only dream about. It cuts across all demographics.

Every few years, Cartier gives this icon of icons a refresh. There is always something to be modded: The brancards (case sides), the lugs, the dial, the bracelet. Maybe a new manufacture movement to add value to the timepiece. 

The 2023 lineup features updates to the Tank Francaise, Tank Americaine and Tank Louis Cartier. Cartier is also introducing a Tank Normale to its Prive family, an elite circle of numbered and limited edition timepieces. And as part of its Les Reeditions de Cartier collection, the brand is bringing back the Tank Cintree – a model that first appeared in 1921 – in platinum. 

A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU

Friday, 2 pm

Lifestyle

Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself.

Sign Up

Sign Up

Tank Francaise

The new Tank Francaise was unveiled to much fanfare earlier this year, and for good reason. The original watch was released in 1996, but thereafter Cartier left it to its own devices. So a relaunch 27 years on called for a star-studded celebration with the likes of Rami Malek and Catherine Deneuve in attendance, both of whom starred in the ad campaign. 

At the start of the year, Cartier deployed seven references across three sizes: Small, medium and large. The small and medium sizes were made available in 18K yellow gold or steel, while the large came only in steel. With the gold versions you could also choose diamond-set models. More recently, two more references joined the lineup: small and medium in steel with diamonds. 

Compared to the 1996 edition, Cartier applied more satin finishes to the case and bracelet, giving it a more refined look. This refinement extends to the crown, which was redesigned to sit flush with the case. A polarising move, it divided watch enthusiasts into two camps, those who appreciated the sleeker aesthetic, and those who yearned for the older, more tactile crown. 

SEE ALSO

A massive year for Rolex

Elsewhere, the new case is attached to the bracelet via a single end link rather than three links. This gives the Tank Francaise a stronger presence on the wrist. It looks more like a watch than a piece of jewellery. Only the large model is fitted with an automatic movement; the rest are quartz-powered. 

Tank Americaine

The new Tank Americaine is trimmer and more svelte than ever before. It’s almost as if its predecessors had decided to diet – not that it had to, mind you. The 1989 original and its successors were already very lean. 

However, that didn’t stop Cartier from shaving off a few millimetres here and there. For example, the large model was previously 44 mm x 27 mm; it’s now 44 mm by 24.4 mm. In thickness, the Americaine was 9.6 mm; it’s now 8.6 mm. 

As Tank enthusiasts know, what’s unique about the Americaine is its curvaceous silhouette. It’s the most Rubenesque member of the Tank family. That said, the new Americaine’s curves and swerves cling to the wrist ever so gracefully, its polished brancards leading the eye to linger languorously. 

With 11 references to choose from, there’s practically one Americaine for every taste. Size-wise, it goes from mini to small to large, with the medium curiously missing. Perhaps Cartier will fill this gap in time to come, or perhaps not. The mini and small models house quartz movements, while the large version features an automatic calibre. 

Choose from steel, rose gold or white gold, with the precious metal models available with bracelets and diamond-set versions as well. Otherwise, alligator straps complete the offer. 

Tank Louis Cartier

We loved Cartier’s monochromatic Tank Must watches when they first appeared in 2021. There was something so elegantly elemental about having a lacquered dial in colours reminiscent of the world’s most prized gems: ruby red, sapphire blue and emerald green. 

This year, Cartier has applied that concept to the Tank Louis Cartier line, upping the luxe quotient in the process. The red (Cartier calls it Bordeaux) and green lacquered dials are now borne on yellow-gold cases, giving them a resolutely vintage vibe. 

Also reminiscent of the 1970s/1980s are two other models with graphic dials. The yellow-gold version features a pixelated, tri-gold-finish dial that reminds us of the chequerboard mosaic tiles in Hong Kong’s MTR. The rose-gold edition sports a tri-gold-finish dial with a grid-like pattern. All four models are fitted with in-house-produced manual-winding movements. 

Tank Normale

Each year, Cartier selects a special model to join the ranks of its exclusive, limited edition Cartier Prive collection. In its seventh outing, the brand takes us back to where it all began, deriving inspiration from the original icon, the 1917 Tank Normale. From that starting point, we are presented with seven references.

Key among them are three skeletonised models. Only a handful of watchmakers have mastered the art of skeletonising, and Cartier flexes its prowess in this department with this trio, available in yellow gold (50 pieces), platinum (50 pieces) or fully set platinum (20 pieces). 

Powered by a manual-winding calibre that offers a 24-hour indication, daytime hours are elegantly displayed at the top of the dial while night-time hours grace the bottom. Visually, this day-night transition is exquisitely rendered: The skeletonised bridges depict the sun and the moon, while a graduated colour scheme reinforces the concept. 

If you prefer a simpler take on the Tank Normale, the other four time-only models would be it. Available in yellow gold or platinum, they are fitted with either seven-row bracelets (100 pieces each) or black/brown alligator straps (200 pieces each). A manual-winding movement provides the juice. 

Les Reeditions de Cartier – Tank Cintree

In 2021, Cartier started its Les Reeditions division to reintroduce rare and highly collectable models. These re-editions are designed to be as similar to the original as possible. This year’s choice is the Tank Cintree in platinum. Incidentally, the Tank Americaine evolved from the Tank Cintree. 

The very first Tank Cintree appeared in 1921, and, like other watches of the Art Deco era, were a symphony of elegant lines and curves. Fast forward to 2023, and the Tank Cintree hasn’t lost any of that finesse; in fact, Cartier has somehow managed to refine the case even further. 

The case is now a mere 6.03 mm in height, with brancards that flaunt polished verticals and satin-brushed horizontals, and a manual-winding calibre beating at its heart. Only 150 pieces exist, so aficionados would do well to contact their sales associates post-haste.