Celebrating the Cosmograph Daytona and new wonders at Rolex
There’s plenty to lust after in the brand’s latest range of novelties
AS ROLEX’S Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona reaches the golden age of 60 this year, it’s no wonder that the spotlight is on the most recognisable chronograph watch on the planet.
But it doesn’t mean that there were no surprises when the brand rolled out its latest models at Watches and Wonders 2023. Visitors were not disappointed, as there were plenty of “wow” moments to be experienced. While it sticks to its desire to reinvent while preserving a sense of continuity when it comes to updating its collections, Rolex’s non-stop drive for perfection spurs it to keep raising the bar. The result is deceptively modest changes that have produced astonishing results and a lineup of must-have watches, as this year’s novelties show.
OYSTER PERPETUAL COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA
At a glance, the new Cosmograph Daytona has subtle changes. But a closer look will reveal some significant updates. The first thing you notice is that the new version looks bigger, especially with the Oystersteel version, with a white or black dial. Actually, they are still the same size, that is, 40mm. They only look larger because the case is now 0.5mm slimmer at 11.9 mm thick – and the case lugs more symmetrical.
The dial has also been reworked to show thinner sub-dial rings which make the three sub-dials look like they’ve grown; the hour markers are also down-sized. The result is a cleaner and more balanced face for the watches, which are now multiplied to 32 references.
A bigger change was made to the ceramic bezel. The new models have a ring around it made in the same metal as the middle case. The ring stops the ceramic from stretching to the bezel’s edge. It’s a practical measure – ceramic is great and durable, except if you happen to knock the bezel edge pretty hard and shatter the whole thing. A superbly sculpted, smooth and lustrous high-technology monobloc Cerachrom bezel in black ceramic was introduced in 2016 in place of the engraved metal bezel.
This visual and technical evolution represents a nod to history and the 1965 model, also fitted with a black bezel insert, but in Plexiglas.
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The changes may be seen as tweaks to make the Cosmograph Daytona more refined, in looks and function. Yet when they are made by Rolex, such refinements are still eye-catching. And this time, they amount to an overhaul, especially since a new movement has been installed. The previous one, although updated over the years, dates back some 23 years, which makes the new calibre 4131 especially significant.
Made of fewer components, the new movement has a more efficient escapement that reduces energy loss, absorbers to protect the heart of the movement and optimised ball bearings that enhance self-winding. It also has a new design – a cut-out oscillating weight and, on the bridges, a Rolex Cotes de Geneve decoration.
In the new 950 platinum version, the oscillating weight is in 18 ct yellow gold. In fact, this top-of-the-line Cosmograph Daytona model, identified by an ice blue dial, has a see-through sapphire case-back – a first for the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection – where the new movement can be seen. It’s the only new watch from the Cosmograph Daytona range that comes equipped with a transparent case-back. Price: S$108,600 (950 platinum).
OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER 42
This is Rolex’s second watch in RLX titanium, after the Deepsea Challenge rolled out last November. Both its 42mm case and bracelet are made of RLX titanium, so the new Yacht-Master 42, unlike past models, is feather-light yet strong and highly protected from corrosion. Just what navigators and skippers want. Indeed, the model, launched in 1992, was designed for them from the start. It has a bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel fitted with a Cerachrom insert in matt black ceramic. This is very useful for sailing and in identifying the Yacht-Master 42. The new version stands out for its technical satin finish – a satin finish with a visible grain, a feature of Rolex watches in RLX titanium – which extends to the middle case sides, the edges of the bracelet links and the sides of the clasp cover. Price: S$19,600
OYSTER PERPETUAL Day Date 36
Rolex’s most prestigious model, crafted only in precious metals, shows off a creative twist in this new 36mm timepiece. The dial is redecorated with a motif that is inspired by a jigsaw puzzle of turquoise blue, red, fuchsia, orange, green yellow pieces fit together on a single colour background – turquoise blue on the yellow or white gold watch, and orange on the Everose gold version. The colourful motif, set on an enamel canvas, alludes to the idea that “life is a puzzle that we piece together day by day with each part symbolising a key moment of our existence”.
Instead of the day of the week that usually appears on the arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock in Day-Date models, inspirational words in English – “Happy”, “Eternity”, “Gratitude”, “Peace”, “Faith”, “Love” and “Hope” – are displayed. In place of the date, the three o’clock window reveals daily one of 31 exclusive emojis. Ten baguette-cut sapphires in six different hues, set according to the main colour of the dial, mark the hours. Price: on request
Oyster Perpetual
Watch buyers went wild in 2020 when Rolex rolled out Oyster Perpetual watches with candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red or green dials. Rolex has returned with new models, this time with a dial dotted with many coloured bubbles uniting the same five colours. This “effervescent, euphoric design”, the work of “masterful technique”, is given the name “Celebration”. It’s available in 31mm, 36mm and 41mm Oystersteel versions. Price: S$8,900 (41mm), S$8,450 (36mm), S$7,900 (31mm)
Perpetual 1908
Elegant, classic and undoubtedly contemporary, this completely new model is a watch for formal outings. It’s graced by a slim case crowned with a bezel that’s part domed and part finely fluted, emblematic of Rolex’s watchmaking heritage. It’s the first in a new Perpetual line that’s seen to replace the Cellini collection.
The inspiration for the Perpetual 1908 came from a traditional Rolex watch with a Perpetual rotor, while the name “1908” refers to the year the Rolex trademark was officially registered in Switzerland.
The sleek dial that stands out from the model’s 39mm case, yellow or white gold, reflects an intense white or intense black colour, stamped with Arabic numerals 3, 9, 12 and faceted index hour markers – all in yellow gold. The hour hand, also in yellow gold, features a circle just before the tip, while the minute hand is shaped like a two-edged sword. The seconds are displayed on a sub-dial at six o’clock.
Flip the watch over and a Rolex state-of-the-art automatic movement comes into view through the transparent case-back; the movement boasts five patent applications.The Perpetual 1908 is mounted on an alligator strap equipped with a Dualclasp, a double folding clasp, in yellow or white gold. Price: S$30,800
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