Collaborations are the new watch trend

Teamwork helps watch brands create more exciting timepieces

GREAT minds think alike, and for watch brands, teaming up with designers, artists and even other watchmakers lets them create more impactful timepieces. While only a few used to dabble in collaborations, more are jumping on the bandwagon. Here are some recent ones:

Audemars Piguet Carolina Bucci Limited Edition The new 34mm Royal Oak Self-Winding Carolina Bucci Limited Edition is a collaboration with the Italian jewellery designer. Bucci gave the Royal Oak the “frosted gold” look in 2016, and is back to partner Audemars Piguet to create a distinctive dial for the iconic collection. The result is a new face for a new limited-edition watch, one that comes alive in a rich rainbow of colours when it’s exposed to light. Many brands in recent years have launched timepieces with dials in various colours, but none as colourful as this. The multi-coloured spectrum dial of the Limited Edition Royal Oak is given full play against a black ceramic case and bracelet. A reminder of the “Tapisserie” (tapestry) effect, the pattern of iridescent hues varies from dial to dial, making each of the 300 pieces — produced to commemorate the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary — a unique timepiece. Though framed in a small 34mm wide case, the latest addition to the Royal Oak family is designed and created for both sexes. Price: S$78,300

Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire Limited Edition This is the fruit of a collaboration among Zenith, auction house Phillips and renowned watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. The seed for the Calibre 135 was planted when Phillips suggested that Zenith’s most awarded watch movement be made available for sale. Zenith subsequently offered Phillips a partnership to create a special series based on the movement. The mechanism in question is Calibre 135-0, produced from 1949 till 1962 — a period overlapping the golden age of chronometer competitions.  It has won more than 230 chronometry prizes and solidified Zenith’s reputation as a pre-eminent maker of precision chronometers. The 10 movements picked for the limited edition of 10 watches are from the years 1950-1954, when the 135-0 won a key chronometry competition for an unheard-of 5 straight years. Voutilainen, who’s an “absolute master” at it, was roped in to restore and decorate the movements. These are housed in a 38 mm platinum case in a totally new watch. While contemporary in appearance, Caliber 135 reveals a movement of yore through its sapphire case-back when the watch is flipped over. The timepiece is sold exclusively by Phillips. Price: 132,900 Swiss francs (S$184,731)

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross (Limited Edition) Three years ago, Samuel Ross unveiled REFORM, a sculpture which the multi-talented British creative artist designed to mark Hublot’s 40th anniversary. The 40 cm high artwork is a combination of granite and steel, a fusion of past and present produced by both traditional hand-finishing and cutting-edge machining. The Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross, limited to 50 pieces, is a reinterpretation of REFORM. The 31-year-old Ross’ imprint on the gravity-defying timepiece is instantly recognisable in the use of colour and love of stark geometry and urban design, laced with his trademark innovation and precision. The distinctive, stylised hexagon of the Big Bang is reflected in the titanium honeycomb mesh used on the sapphire dial, case, case-back and strap. The hexagon is also a visual symbol of the watch’s functionality — a key strand running through all of Ross’ designs. The artist, who has worked with brands like Nike, Oakley and Off-White, has chosen orange — representing energy and optimism — for the strap, crown, tourbillon bridge and the bumpers protecting the case, a jubilant contrast to the sombre grey of the satin-finished case and bezel. Price: US$116,000 (S$161,240)