Omega: Over the moon

OMEGA’S novelties this year run the gamut from record-breaking dive watches to line extensions of beloved classics in new colours and materials. In particular, two contrasting models of the iconic Speedmaster showcase the collection’s multifaceted nature, while a range of ladies-focused timepieces offer timeless elegance with broad-based appeal.

Speedmaster X‑33 Marstimer

Omega’s Speedmaster line is practically synonymous with space exploration. This reputation was cemented in 1969, when the Speedmaster Professional chronograph became the first watch to be worn on the Moon during Buzz Aldrin’s exploration of the lunar surface.

With humanity looking towards Mars as the next frontier for manned missions in space exploration, Omega has responded by developing a timepiece to support future expeditions to the Red Planet. The brand recently unveiled its new Speedmaster X‑33 Marstimer, a cutting-edge tool watch that’s the most advanced Speedmaster yet.

Conceived by Omega and produced in partnership with the European Space Agency (ESA), the Marstimer tracks various times and time zones across both Mars and Earth. Among its functions is the unique Coordinated Mars Time (MTC) indicator, which displays the Martian analogue to Earth’s Coordinated Universal Time (UTC). As the average day on Mars is 39 minutes longer than Earth’s, the Martian seconds, minutes, and hours are consequently 2.75 per cent longer as well — the MTC timekeeping standard was developed to account for this critical difference.

MTC display aside, the Marstimer has also been equipped with a solar compass that determines true north on both Mars and Earth. These functions, and others like dedicated chronographs for Mission Elapsed Time (MET) and Phase Elapsed Time (PET), all support the Marstimer’s raison d’etre as an instrument for Mars-based space missions.

Of course, a tool watch is more than just its functions; legibility, ease of use, and robustness are also crucial traits, and the Marstimer has these in spades. The timepiece starts off with a bold 45-millimetre case in titanium for strength and lightness. Its size, in turn, affords ample space for a large dial to present multiple layers of information via a digital-analogue layout. Interfacing with the watch is a cinch too, thanks to the crown and four pushers that allow for quick adjustments.

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As for aesthetics, Omega has opted for a simple colour scheme with high contrast to match the watch’s technical slant. Much of the Marstimer is dominated by grey tones from its titanium construction, with a black dial providing high legibility. Red accents on the seconds hand and bezel ring, on the other hand, lend a touch of colour while also alluding to Mars’ distinctive landscape.

The Marstimer is powered by Omega’s Calibre 5622, a high precision, thermo-compensated quartz movement. Each timepiece will be delivered with both a titanium bracelet as well as a NATO strap. While a manned mission to Mars is still some time away, Omega’s anticipatory development of the Marstimer signals its commitment to space exploration. Consider this a spiritual successor to the Speedmaster Professional that went to the Moon – one that would prove its mettle in time on Mars, and hopefully sooner rather than later.

Speedmaster ‘57

In contrast to the Marstimer, the Speedmaster ‘57 is a decidedly traditional iteration of the Speedmaster that explores the watch’s early history as a track chronograph. A new model of this watch was unveiled this year – in eight references, no less – to mark the first major revision of the Speedmaster ‘57 since its release in 2013.

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The heart of the new timepiece is its Calibre 9906 hand-wound movement, which has allowed Omega to retain the original Speedmaster ‘57’s minimalist two-counter layout. More significantly, its svelte dimensions have also enabled the watch’s case thickness to be reduced considerably from 13.58mm to just 12.99mm. The overall effect is a streamlined watch that looks and feels significantly sleeker than its predecessor.

Omega has developed four colourways to complement the Speedmaster ‘57’s new silhouette. Black, the most classic option, comes with a sandwich dial construction this time for additional visual interest, with cutouts on the upper dial exposing a lower layer of Super-Luminova. Blue, green, and burgundy dials round out the other options to suit different wearers. Each colourway is, in turn, paired with either a stainless steel bracelet or a matching leather strap, for a total of eight variations on the theme.

The new Speedmaster ‘57 is a METAS-certified Master Chronometer and, like the original Speedmaster released in 1957, all eight references of the watch are cased in steel.