Omega takes a deep dive

IN THE pantheon of iconic dive watches, Omega’s Seamaster ranks as one of the most storied. After all, which other sub-aquatic timepiece can claim the likes of Jacques Cousteau and James Bond as faithful wearers? 

One of Omega’s most iconic moments happened in 1963, six years after the Seamaster 300 made its debut. That’s when French oceanographer Cousteau chose the watch for his Conshelf II project, in which six oceanauts lived 10 m underwater for 30 days in an attempt to recreate living and working conditions on the seafloor.

The Seamaster’s reputation was sealed in the 1970s when Omega introduced the Ploprof (short for plongeur professionnel or professional diver), designed in collaboration with French engineering firm Comex. With its depth rating of 600 m – virtually unheard of back then – the watch quickly became a firm favourite among professional divers. 

It took one Pierce Brosnan to propel the Seamaster into the mainstream, when the 007 actor donned the Seamaster Diver 300M in 1995’s GoldenEye. Bond has worn different variations of the watch ever since. In the last two decades, Omega began incorporating its Co-Axial Master Chronometer movements into the Seamaster range, combining precision with anti-magnetic capabilities to meet modern demands.

This year, Omega is introducing no less than 11 variants to the Seamaster line-up, all clad in various shades of blue to play up its maritime connection. Omega calls it “Summer Blue”, which has a nice holiday vibe for those of us who aren’t oceanic explorers or secret agents. 

The collection’s marketing slogan is “precision at every level”. It’s meant to serve as a reminder that Omega has created high-performance wrist companions for any depth, whether you’re snorkelling in the Maldives or attempting a deep dive in the Philippine Trench. 

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While the Aqua Terra is the lightweight, it still boasts an impressive 150 m depth resistance. At the other end of the spectrum lies the Ultra Deep, with its 6,000 m rating. Fun fact – the greater the rating, the darker the Summer Blue tones get. 

Let’s plunge in for a closer look at the highlights! 

Aqua Terra 41mm

The most “casual” of the lot – meant to be worn when cruising on a yacht or investigating shallow reefs – is the Aqua Terra, which is also the most versatile among its ocean-going brethren. It looks just as good on landlubbers too, whether under a shirtsleeve or paired with more casual fits. There is a choice of a stainless steel bracelet or blue rubber strap.

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Powered by Omega’s workhorse Calibre 8900, the watch boasts a sun-brushed dial with a gradient effect, like the surface of the water glinting in sunlight. In the dark, the hands and indexes glow light blue due to the use of a unique Super-LumiNova.

Diver 300M

Starting off as a tool watch, the Seamaster Diver 300M quickly catapulted to pop culture icon status thanks to its association with the James Bond films. For this year’s cosmetic refresh, Omega applied the Summer Blue treatment, which we think works especially well with the dial’s signature wave pattern. 007 would certainly approve!

The blue ceramic bezel also sports a diving scale in Summer Blue, rendered using the laborious Grand Feu enamelling technique. To complete the look, the hands and indexes are coated in light blue Super-LumiNova. Pair the watch with a stainless steel bracelet for urban jaunts or with a rubber strap for sportier endeavours. 

Planet Ocean 600M

Built for avid divers, the Planet Ocean 600M is much beloved for its helium escape valve, unidirectional rotating bezel with a luminous dot to time dives, and a depth rating that goes above and beyond the needs of recreational diving. 

With a diameter of 39.5 mm, this edition sits at the smaller end of the Planet Ocean collection (the biggest being 45.5 mm), so those with slender wrists are in luck. 

Here the Summer Blue treatment is used to splendid effect: The ceramic dial is treated with physical vapour deposition to give an ombre aesthetic, and is then brushed for further decoration. Cased in stainless steel, the watch features Omega’s proprietary Calibre 8800 at its core, noted for its precision, durability and anti-magnetic properties. 

Ploprof

The Ploprof is one of those watches that has a polarising effect: You either love it or hate it. As fans of 1970s designs – and of chunky proportions – we belong in the former camp. Aesthetics aside, the Ploprof boasts serious scientific cred. In its early years, it faithfully accompanied Cousteau on his research expeditions. 

Every now and then, Omega resurrects this hulking beast, and we’re glad they did so this year. Paying homage to the original 1971 model’s monobloc case construction, the 2023 edition is hewn from O-megasteel (a proprietary alloy stronger than 316L steel) and boasts the iconic crown guard and safety pusher on the left and right-hand side of the case, respectively. 

The perforated rubber strap completes the 1970s vibe, but what gives it a 2023 touch is the sunburst gradient dial in Summer Blue, which now takes on a blue-grey hue to symbolise the murky depths of the ocean at 1,200 m. 

Ultra Deep

A tribute to Omega’s underwater prowess would not be complete without the Ultra Deep. The Ultra Deep series commemorates American explorer Victor Vescovo’s record-breaking descent to the Mariana Trench in 2019, accompanied by a specially created Omega timepiece. 

That timepiece was rated to 15,000 m, well beyond the deepest known point of the Mariana Trench – and hence the entire planet – the 11,000 m Challenger Deep. Omega eventually commercialised the timepiece and slapped on a 6,000 m rating, birthing what we know today as the Ultra Deep.  

This year’s edition features a beautifully textured lacquer dial that’s an exact replica of Challenger Deep, as mapped out during the 2019 expedition. And, although in reality no light penetrates to such depths, the gradation of colours from blue to black is executed so well that we’ll grant Omega artistic licence. But wait – there’s also a whimsical touch: If you shine an ultraviolet light on the dial, you’ll spot the words “Omega was here”, in reference to the record-busting dive of 10,935 m. 

Encased in an O-megasteel chassis is the same engine powering the Ploprof, Calibre 8912.