Patek Philippe’s new Aquanaut has men all excited
Get a close-up look at the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar and other novelties launched by the brand
MEN’S TIMEPIECES HAVE USUALLY BEEN the main draw at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. But this year, at Patek Philippe’s booth where 17 new models were being unveiled, the men were jostling for a look at a lady – ladies’ watch, that is. Here’s a close-up of the popular Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar, along with other novelties presented by the brand at the show.
Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref 5261R-001
It hasn’t just gone viral; the watch also has men falling for it. Why? Apart from the ‘Aquanaut Luce’ tag and putting it in Patek Philippe’s women’s watch category, the timepiece looks no different from the very desirable Aquanaut – with the brand’s hot annual calendar mechanism to boot. Though the Aquanaut, conceived as a sporty model for men, has been around since 1997 and acquired a cult following, there’s still no calendar complication in its lineup.
The Aquanaut Luce is a later feminine reinterpretation of the Aquanaut. It’s fitted with a more refined case, but still features the Aquanaut’s rounded octagonal bezel. The models in this “modern casual chic” collection for ladies, of course, are generally smaller. The new 39.9mm Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar, however, is closer in size to the Aquanaut. A touch of bling could have made a difference but, unlike many Aquanaut Luce pieces, no precious stones decorate this supposedly women timepiece. Instead, its rose gold case holds a dial in a gender neutral colour – an elegant blue-grey; the strap is also of the same hue.
The Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar, powered by a new automatic in-house movement, is the third timepiece in Patek Philippe’s move in recent years to “reinforce” its women’s casual line with useful complications. The first was the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time dual time watch in 2021. Then came the “Rainbow” self-winding chronograph last year. The patented annual calendar mechanism, introduced in 1996, displays the day, date and month and requires only one manual correction per year. It also has a moon-phase display which tracks the lunar movements so precisely that it deviates only one day in 122 years from the true cycle.
Price: S$81,900.
Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref 5224R-001
With travel now back to normal, this watch is a timely arrival. The Travel Time system, which shows a second time zone, is already found in many Patek Philippe models. On this new updated Travel Time, two centre hands turning on a 24-hour circle offers an original display of local and home time on a navy-blue dial, in a 42mm rose gold case paired with a navy-blue calfskin strap.
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Noon is located at 12 o’clock, rather than six, as usually is the case; the rearrangement ensures excellent legibility throughout the daytime hours. Thanks to a new self-winding movement, the traditional correction pushers for local time on the case’s left flank are replaced with a patented correction mechanism, operated on the crown.
Price: S$76,400.
Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Ref 5531G-001
The first minute repeater model that always chimes the local time, this fully handmade miniature “Rare Handcrafts” masterpiece, first launched in 2017, is also the first World Time Minute Repeater in white gold. Decorating the dial centre is a new Grand Feu cloisonné enamel motif which depicts one of the famous steamships still sailing on Lake Geneva.
Price: On request.
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref 5924G-010
The first chronograph in Patek Philippe’s Pilot style watches, this new model combines a fly-back chronograph and a two-time zone function and date. The white gold watch comes in two versions: one with a khaki green lacquered dial, worn with an olive green calfskin strap; the other with a sunburst blue-grey dial and navy-blue strap. The heart that’s pumping Travel Time Chronograph is an in-house automatic movement.
Price: S$100,800.
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